Walking in the desert Sesrim, Nambia	Lots of seals at the Atlantic in stormy weather
Rain and Thunderstorm. Here we decided – HOME.

01-23.05.2010 Namibia

The name of the camp we are at now is Quivertree Forest Rest Camp and even though they have a campsite, we have rented a room. Outside the temperature has fallen and it’s blowing and rain is on its way. One of the guys who works at the camp said we are guaranteed 100% rain later on – don’t really know what he means, but we will probably find out. The camp gets its name from the quivertree forest it has as a neighbour, so we had a walk round in there. The trees get their name from the use of the trunks by the natives to make quivers for their arrows. The trees have a soft grass like inside and are easily hollowed out for use as a quiver. On the site they have several cheetas, but of course they have their own compound. At 4.0pm they feed them and you can go into the compound while they are being fed. I was a bit dubious about doing this, but it went okay. We came out with all our bits still attached. The animals are orphans and most of them were brought to the camp as cubs and have been here ever since. They can never release them back into the wild again, because they have become too tame.

Later during the evening the sky resembled something from “starwars”. It was really black, but seemed to be hanging over us like a big carpet with light around the edges. We had never seen anything like it. It didn’t take long before the storm started, with thunder and lightning, very strong winds and it threw it down – cats and dogs had nothing on this. Now we know what he meant with 100% rain. Yes – a good job we dropped the camp site.

After two days we were on our way further down south towards Cape town. Spent the night in Lutzville about 300 km north of Cape town. The Golden Grape B&B is where we stayed. On arrival in the town we had coded the GPS to find a small hotel, but it looked very empty when we arrived. As we sat there deciding our next move, a guy in a car stopped and asked us if he could help us. His advice was to drop the hotel and drive down to the bottle store and ask for Rudolph. We should then ask him to direct us to Jan’s guest house. Rudolph ended up by driving in front of us to make sure we could find it. People are so friendly here and really want to help.

We reached Cape town the next day and it was great to see Laura, Toby, Silas and Linus again. We are home again!!! We have decided to travel further north after a few days in Cape town, in search of warmer climates again. Unfortunately Toby had to leave on an assignment in Nigeria and would be away a for week.

World Cup

We can see that Cape Town has progressed a lot regarding preparations for the world cup since we were here in September. The road improvements are nearly finished and we hear that the 3 million tickets that were for sale are more or less sold. Cape Town is really gearing itself up for the big tournament. One can just hope that the fans who will soon be on their way down here, realize that it’s winter down here and it can get really cold during the evenings. If they don’t, the clothes shops will do a roaring trade in jumpers and winter coats!

Called in at Toyota to get them to look at the radio/cd player, but no luck, the guarantee has to be honoured in Europe. They removed the radio so it can be sent to Europe complete with a letter confirming that it is faulty and was removed from our vehicle. Let’s hope it comes back operational.

Our time in Cape Town was spent helping Toby and Laura with a few jobs, visiting Jorgen and Sonja two friends in Cape Town together with Laura, trying to get our camping chairs repaired under guarantee, new back tyres on the vehicle, visiting the hairdressers and keeping out of the rain. It has rained every day we have been here apart from one and when it rains here it really throws it down. We haven’t really been able to spend much time outside at all. I don’t even think Manchester can claim more rain than Cape Town. Not to worry though we are really enjoying staying here with Toby, Laura and of course Linus and Silas. When we soon start to venture north again. we hope the weather improves.

A mighty big decision                                                                                                                                     

As we have moved gradually south, it has become colder and colder and camping is not as enjoyable anymore. The temperature generally during the day is around 25 degrees C, but the problem is during the evenings, it falls to about 10 degrees C. Life on the campsite is spent trying to keep warm – no fun at all really. So we have rented rooms in preference to camping – and this isn’t really what we want to do.

Two possibilities – 1) carry on and brave it. 2) change direction and drive back up north. After a lot of thought we made up our minds to travel north – but not driving. We would fly instead. You see we actually had a third option. Leave the vehicle in Cape Town, plus the African winter and enjoy a summer back in Denmark!!! We had to find a safe place to leave the vehicle. We rented a spot with a company called Storewell, close to the airport. The vehicle would be stored inside and looked after until we return again in October, to hopefully carry on with our trip as planned – but this time in a warmer climate!!!

As I write this diary, I am sitting in our house in Silkeborg in Denmark. YES WE ARE BACK IN EUROPE.

Reflections

Looking back on the last eight and a half months on the road, I can only say that it has lived up to our expectations. It has been fascinating, exciting, challenging, intriguing, hot, dry, windy, muddy, sandy, watery and we have both seen mother nature at her best and worst and met a lot of fantastic people out there. Thanks!

South Africa was organized with good roads and fantastic scenery with the jewel in its crown being Kruger National Park. Lesotho with its unforgettable mountains and passes and the fantastic Highland Water Scheme and dam. Swaziland, the little forgotten kingdom. Nice game park and lots of people on bikes. Mozambique on the way up again after a turbulent past. Gorongoza returning to its former glory, good roads to move round on and optimism we could sense for the country’s future. Malawi, a little pearl hiding in the middle. Fantastic nature and camping sites along Lake Malawi, easy to drive around, good game parks. Shame they ran out of diesel on our first visit. Tanzania – yes this is Africa, but oh those prices. Tourists are not coming so much anymore, not the ones in our category any way. Great parks, Kilimanjaro – terrible roads – oh yes, South Beach, Zanzibar, great. Kenya was unfortunately another very expensive country for us if you want to visit the game parks. Fantastic nature, poor roads, terrible bread. Great people – thanks Joe and Janet, Tony and Adrianne – and the dogs. Uganda was unforgettable, friendly people, unbelievable scenery and we met Sarah our sponsored child – and even got an extra Sarah into the bargain. Rwanda gave us the story of what really happened there, cleanest city we have seen in Africa. As in Uganda, they want too much money to see the mountain gorillas. A none plastic bag country – with great coffee and cakes in Kigali. Namibia, our favourite country in Africa – well they have the lot and on top of that Etosha plus fantastic camping sites. Good bread and exceptional cakes in Luderitz. We are going back.

The diary ends here for now, but will be resumed when hit the road in Africa again in October

28.04-01.05

For those who don’t know Luderitz, it lies out to the Atlantic on the west coast. This means that it’s very blowy and cold, even though the locals don’t believe it is. The town is quite modern with lots of new buildings and structures. We enjoyed spending five hours walking round doing a bit of shopping. The town is a fishing town, so the fishing boats dominate the little harbour. You find a great cake/coffee shop in the town and the cakes are mmmmm! Our visit here was a sweet success. Drove out to Diaz Point where sea lions hang out. The weather was still blowy but we could see them sprawled out on the rocks and swimming around.

One of the things we have noticed in Namibia, is on most fronts they are miles ahead of the other African countries regarding development. A good working infrastructure with first class well kept roads. Our first evening there we ate at the local fish restaurant and stayed at the hotel the second night. Both times we enjoyed the food. Outside Luderitz you find the ghost town Kolmonskop, an earlier diamond town that went broke. Now buried in sand, you can still visit the town and see how grand the houses were they built. For a three year period in its hay day it was the richest town in the world, but now not many people know it exists.

On the 30^th we took our leave of Luderitz and hit the tar road to Klein Aus Vista, a camping site 120 km from Luderitz. They were all booked up, but luckily a cancellation gave us one of the camp sites. The sites are okay, but lack the cosy atmosphere we like. Lots of people making noises early in the morning at 05.30am. Car doors banging, shouting to  each other, all while lots of people are still sleeping. Karen shouted for them to "please be quiet” and all of a sudden you could hear a pin drop. We couldn’t sleep after being woken so early, so we got up and had a walk up the hill to see some of the countryside around the camp. Really a hikers paradise. While we were eating breakfast when we got back, we were surrounded by birds who could see all the delights on the table and even a mouse  came walking right over to our table – cheeky!

Really an awful lot of people driving around Namibia in 4x4s, after more or less not seeing any at all in Tanzania and Kenya. It probably shows which country is now on peoples first list of countries to see. Anyway in our 4x4 we are now on the way to Brokkaros, a campsite in a crater. We have been there before, but found they were improving the two campsites. Had our lunch at the first then drove up a further 400 meters to the second. Walked up onto the crater wall, but were surprised to find that there were no flowers in bloom at all. Everything was a dull brown colour. It started to rain, so we turned back and drove back down to the lower campsite again and here we met three guys from England who had just arrived at the site. As we talked it started to blow and rain very hard, so Karen and me decided to go to plan “b”, which was a camp further on. When we arrived they were able to offer us a room, which was lucky for us, because the weather had turned nasty.                                                                                                                                                                                           

Left the park on the 20th heading out to the camp site. We rang to a lodge in Windhoek and booked a room (Klien Windhoek Guesthouse). We still had things to buy, so another day was needed.
Drove to the guest house and parked the car in their car park. The owner drove us down to town and told us to take a taxi back and not to try walking back. Some of his guests had been robbed at knife point doing just that. Enjoyed our stay here and finished the day enjoying a succulent Gemsbuck steak. The owner was very interested in buying our vehicle, so that’s another possibility in the bag. He even has a farm further north that we could camp at free of charge. We will do that next time round.

We can really feel that the evenings are getting colder now, but as long as the days are sunny and warm, we will be okay. Now we are on our way in the direction of Sesriem and the dunes. The road from Windhoek towards Walvis Bay goes through the mountains and the mountains change colour as you drive through. We stopped for coffee and just didn’t want to go on.
Karen had found a lodge with a camp site which was situated in the middle of nowhere – just our cup of tea. We camped under a sort of cliff overhang with a fantastic view of the mountains – still changing colour!!! We are going to stay here for at least a couple of days. There are kudu, ostrich, zebra and even a leopard walking around and even annoying mice at the camp. They climbed into the engine compartment to see what they could chew and even watched us while we made food – the mice, not the others!!! Yes Rooiklip Farm and campsite offered a bit of everything.
We went for a walk down to the river – or what was a river. It was very what you call dried out. It only rains a couple of days a year, so you could say it’s a dry area. The dogs came with us. On big fella and two about the size of a cat who were called snowy and patch (our names for them. It’s always good having dogs along – then you don’t get lost. Very warm, so the dogs were lying down under trees on route, but followed as we walked past. We climbed a hill next to the camp to enjoy a sundowner on our second night at the camp. We felt as though we were sitting on top of the world. You had a 360 degree view of mountains – you were completely surrounded by them. As the sun slid down the mountains responded with a whole range of colour changes – it was hard to concentrate on our gin and tonics we had transported up to the top with us.

Earlier in the day we had met some of the animals that visit the farm regularly. A donkey, a zebra, an oryx and an ostrich have formed an unusual little family and move around together in the bush. The zebra would even let us stroke it. The others were a bit less keen!

A bit about the camping site. As I wrote earlier, it is set right up against a cliff face and our site was under an overhanging rock. The bathroom was built in the rocks with the taps and shower head being fitted into the rock face itself. The toilet was more or less open to all elements, but nobody came around to our site, so you could sit there and enjoy the scenery, without being disturbed.
After spending three great days at the camp, we moved on calling in at Solitaire to fuel up and get something to eat. This little town we have visited a few times during our previous visits to Namibia. An old tractor minus one wheel has always been parked so you could see it on your way in and it has become quite famous with Namibian travelers. The only problem is that now a whole load of scrapped vehicles have joined the tractor. Not a good idea. The journey down to Sesriem was typical Namibia – mountains, large rugged barren areas and great roads. Got a site at Sesriem camp and drove down to dune 45 towards Sossusvlei. This I can tell you is the perfect sundowner/sunset place. Had a chat with an English couple in a motor home.

Next day we did the whole trip down to Sossusviei, the last three kms in sand, so only 4x4s do the last bit. We climbed up one of the dunes and what a view.

Camped the next night at Castle Duwisib where they have a campsite. The evenings are getting cold now as we move south. Met a German couple at the camp who are going in the opposite direction to us. Exchanged a few tips with each other. Decided to move on towards Luderitz after not being able to find a site to stay at on the way down. The road out to Luderitz is out of this world. You drive through mountains and desert and with sun playing tricks with a slight mist that had formed you would think you were on your way to paradise. Didn’t realize that it was so cold in Luderitz. The camp site was a none starter for me anyway. Apart from it being cold, the wind was blowing – no, not camping weather. We booked into the Sea View Hotel for two days.
now for Windhoek. Stopped at a camp site in Otjiworongo. Good facilities, but a lot of noise where they were felling trees next door to the camp – but luckily they stopped at 6pm. Went down town to eat, because it was too cold to start preparing food. Not too many people around so we were more or less the only people in the restaurant. Plenty of lights at the camp. We felt as though we were sleeping during the day.

Got to Windhoek during the morning and started looking for a 4x4 off road shop where we could buy a new winch. We succeeded, but only after about three hours of going from one shop to another. The prices ranged from 3000-7000 Danish crowns. We managed to get a good one in the lower price range. We also had to try again to get our cell phone to receive and send SMSs. The result was the same, they couldn’t diagnose the problem, so we have to live with it until we come to South Africa again.
We called in at Toyota to get an idea of what we can expect to get for our vehicle if we decide to sell. They were very helpful.
We decided to stay at a lodge camp site about 20 kms outside the capital. We had heard that he, amongst other things, bought vehicles. The site was nice, with a good view over the surrounding countryside. We were shown round the lodge, even though we were staying at the camp site. They had a beautiful indoor pool which was lit up at night. Another cold night, so after eating we went into a small glass lounge on the camp site where it was warm. Next morning I enquired about the owners buying of vehicles, but he didn’t, people could just park their vehicle there and he would look after them – at a small charge of course. It had been a waste of time driving so far


 

16.4-18.4

While at Roy’s camp we found out that we were an hour in front of the ”real time”. Since crossing the border from Zambia we had thought the time in Namibia was the same – according to Lonely Planet they should be. Just think we got up this morning at 7.0am, when it was only 6.0am. we would never have done that back home!!! We ordered the buffet at Roy’s which would be served at 7.0pm. We didn’t fancy cooking tonight. When we got there at 6.45pm the buffet was well under way and the waitress had loaded a couple of plates for us with food, because it was disappearing fast. A group of about ten who had also booked the buffet, had asked if they could eat earlier and they had just said yes without even telling us that we should be there at 6.30pm. It wasn’t quite the enjoyable dinner buffet we had looked forward to – the food was good though.

Called in at Grootfontein to get on the net, but everything closed, or they couldn’t do it. We were lucky in Tsumbe, the last town before Etosha. No problem getting into Etosha. Only 170 N$ for the two of us + 400 for camping. We decided to camp for the first two nights at Namutoni. There was plenty of room at the site. We did an afternoon drive and we saw lots of game – giraffe, elephant, kudo, impala, ostrich, jackal, wilder beast, oryx, zebra etc. Hope we see as much tomorrow. A jackal came wondering into the camp in search of something to eat. You have to be careful, because they are definitely not tame!

Next day out at dawn to see what we could see. We actually saw less than last night. We have never really been lucky with morning drives. Etosha is really a great park to drive round in. There are lots of open areas and the roads are good, plus lots of game. We have never been here at this time of year before, so it is strange to see the “pan” full of water.

One thing we didn’t like though is that Etosha has also started with night game drives as they call them. The poor animals hardly ever have the park to themselves. We decided to stay an extra night at Namatoni and not move to Halali. People we talked to who had been to Halali reported seeing nothing in the way of game at all – so no reason to go there at all.

10.04-13.4

On the way to Livingstone the camp we stopped at was Bruce Millers Farm. Of course it was recommended to us, but after being disappointed a couple of times, we were a bit apprehensive. As we approached the campsite we could see that the road was flooded just ahead, but luckily for us we had to turn off the track before the bridge. Before driving to the camp we walked down to the bridge that was immersed under the fast flowing river, just to have a look at the situation. No one dared to drive through it, apart from a local in a Landcruiser, he managed it, but it didn’t persuade the others who were waiting to try. They managed to get a rope across so people could hold on to that, but only one girl had a go with assistance from a helper.

We left the fun and drove up to the camp. The situation wasn’t much better there, because the river ran beside the camp – or should I say it did. Most of the site was under water, with a couple of canoes drifting around. A guy came running up to tell us that we couldn’t camp where we had intended, because the river could rise by a couple of meters, which would leave the car half immersed in water. Probably a good idea not to camp here we thought.

A young lady with the name of Adrianne appeared and invited us to camp on her father-in-law’s front lawn. He was the guy who owned the site and the farm and he was one of those stuck on the other side of the flooded road. We excepted and on the way to the farm we just checked the situation at the river – still the same!

The farm where we camped was what you could call a real animal farm, with ducks, turkeys, horses, bushbucks, the occasional hyena etc and not to forget the five dogs and I don’t know how many cats! It started to pour down just as we had got the tent up, so Adrianne told us to use the house. So we did just that and then Bruce-Miller eventually arrived after crossing the bridge and told us to make ourselves at home. He promptly lit a fire for us and disappeared again, but would return later. We really enjoyed our stay here. The property has been used for many years as a boarding school, but competition from a new school in the nearby village reduced the pupils wanting to attend, so they had to close. I think the kids who came to this school had the time of their lives, what with all the animals around the place, plus a swimming pool etc.

Next stop Livingstone and Waterfront camping. Livingstone has changed since we were here last. The camping site was good with a good view of the spray from the nearby Victoria Falls and of course the Zambezi river. We drove down to the bridge dividing Zambia from Zimbabwe and walked over to a spot where you could see part of the falls. Met the Foleys again – alias James and Vanessa. This is the fifth time we have met them. Saw United throw the championship away by drawing with Blackburn and had dinner together with the Foleys at the camp.

Next day we went down to Foleys in Livingstone – getting confused now!!! Foleys have a 4x4 garage in the town, so we wanted to hear if they wanted to buy our vehicle later. He didn’t really, but said that we wouldn’t have any problem selling when the time came. In Namibia you don’t have to pay import duty on vehicles under 5 years old – so there’s a chance.

Drove down to the falls and went in from the Zambia side and because there is so much water at the moment, we got absolutely drenched and you couldn’t really see the falls – just in glimpses. We were glad we have been fortunate to have seen them before, also from the Zimbabwe side. Still awesome though – just the noise and the vibrations make you realize how much water thunders through every second.

Left after two nights and we would make for the Shackelton Lodge about 50 kms before the border with Namibia. We were stopped at a road block on the way and were asked to pay a council exit tax. What are you saying we asked, we are not paying for the privilege of leaving a town. He looked all official with safety vest and receipt book. Everyone has to pay he said, but not us we said. Eventually he let us go, telling us we would be sent back upon reaching the border. We weren’t, but the lodge was closed when we reached it, so on to Namibia where we crossed after paying road tax. All countries have their own way of getting money at border crossings, whether  it be road tax, environmental tax or CO2. tax. Made for the Zambezi River Lodge camping, a fantastic site right on the Zambezi. At the moment we are experiencing a fantastic sunset just a few meters from the river. Africa – we just cannot get enough of it, especially Namibia!!! Great to be back. At last, after over 7 months, we had game for dinner at the lodge restaurant – oryx – and we are back in Namibia again!

Getting a bit chilly in the evenings now, compared to further north. Though the temperature doesn’t really fall below 20C during the night, it really feels cold. Looking at the Zambezi you can still see that it’s level is very high at the moment. You can do boat trips on the river, but we decided to give that a miss. Talked to three Dutch guys who are riding from Cape town to Cairo. They have just come up the Caprivi strip on their way out of Namibia. They said there was nothing for 500 km and it had been a hard slog because of headwinds. Rather them than me. Had a walk into the town to see if we could get a couple of things, but it was mainly for the walk we did it. Had some lunch at the local Bistro. The town was all new, with brand new buildings and roads and shops where you could buy everything. Found out we could get our gas bottle filled at the local hardware store as well.  

The next day called in and got the gas bottle filled up, but the price had gone from 13 dollar to a 135. AWA – means Africa wins again and it does, every time. The Caprivi strip is pretty boring generally. There is always the chance you could see an elephant, but we didn’t. Rainbow Lodge was the next stop. We camped right down to the Okavango river and of course we could hear the hippos talking to each other. Just lazed around for a while and got the fire lit so we could grill and all of a sudden a big overland truck rolled in. We thought we were on our own, but not anymore. They were not too bad though when you got used to the noise. Talked to a couple of the travellers from New Zealand.

Lots of commotion early in the morning because the “overlanders” had to get on the road. We also left early, but the camp we had intended to camp at was flooded, we couldn’t even get to it. The next Lodge where they had camping was the same. They had a boat ready to take people over, but nothing to take the car which would be left to its own devices in the village. We journed on with next stop Roy’s Camp, where w stayed 4 years ago. We kept looking out for two Britz Landrovers which we were sure we would overtake soon. Does that bring back memories Shawn and Sarah???

Roy’s camp is a crazy camp with half built walls and old cars parts hanging all over the place. The walls have been half built purposely and a car sawn in two and placed at two different parts of the camp. The weather was hot when we got here, so we hopped in the pool at once. A couple of other campers rolled up during the afternoon. Tomorrow we are heading for Etosha. 

05.04-10.4

Life at Flat Dogs is great. You really know you are in Africa here. The Africa sound is all around you all the time. During the day the sounds of hippos, monkeys and the fantastic bird life fill the camp. Esther, Per and Jonas who we met in Malawi arrived at the camp – great to see them again. The evening game drive we did, we did with them. Was great to have a bit of company and Jonas was good at spotting the game. By the way “flat dogs” is the Zambian word for crocodile. Had to find out!  We also did a couple of day game drives ourselves, one at six in the morning and once again at three thirty in the afternoon, but unfortunately the park doesn’t really want to show its game. Never mind, the uncertainty about whether you will really see anything at all adds to the excitement.

Also had the misfortune of seeing M. United lose to Munich. We met a lot of interesting people at the camp, even the owner who is Australian. All had a few interesting stories to tell about why they are down here. After six great days it was time to move on in the general direction of Lusaka. Stopped off at Laungwa Bridge Camp where we met Jeff and Lyn from England. They have been here driving around for over two years. Ate at the restaurant overlooking the river together with Jeff and Lyn. It turned out that Lyn was 72 and still going strong – hope for us all still.

The campsite was a bit muddy and small but we managed. Off early the next day and arrived in Lusaka in the early afternoon. First to Toyota,  but still no go with the CD player in the vehicle. Warranty for Toyota in Zambia is only two years, so they couldn’t help us with our three year warranty. Found a great shopping centre – went onto the net while we ate at a restaurant, then some shopping in a shop that had everything we needed – great. Then onto Esther and Pier’s who had invited us to stay the night. They have a great little house in compound with lawns and a swimming pool plus lemon and grapefruit trees. Parked the car on the lawn and then enjoyed a fantastic evening with Esther, Per and Jonas – thanks guys!!! On the road to Livingstone now, but decided to stop at a camp two thirds of the way there.

01.04-04.4

Time to move on towards Zambia, with the first stop being Lilongwe again so we could shop. Getting to the border in one day is not on. We drove into Mabuayo Camp in Lilongwe, which had been recommended to us. We didn’t stay their long, because the noise was dreadful, plus they were working on the road just outside and their machinery was running at full power all the time and emitting an awful din. Not a place for us! We tried just a few hundred meters down the road and found a campsite as part of a golf club complex. A much nicer proposition all together. Met three English people in the clubhouse where we had decided to have dinner. Two are working down here the other here on holiday. Spent an enjoyable evening talking to them.

Zambia here we come. Got to the border, where they promptly told Karen that she had to pay 50$ for her visa, contrary to the information we had received from the Zambian Consul in Lilongwe. No amount of discussion would change their mind, not even when we gave them the name of the immigration officer in Lilongwe and invited them to ring to him. Pay or stay where you are was all they would stay. On top of that we had to pay CO2 tax for the car.

We got through with a definite negative introduction to the country. We are now on our way to South Luangwa National Park. We would stay at a camp outside the park called Flat Dog. Where the name came from – well the mind boggles doesn’t it. The camp is on the river Luangwa and perfectly positioned for the many hippos that frequent the area. Bumped into an English couple we have met several times now. Exchanged info. and they were on the road next day – maybe it’s something we said. It’s the second time they have left a camp just as we have arrived.

Again unfortunately, a lot of noise from a group of Chinese next to us. Reminded us a bit of the locals. They always talk to each other as if they were each at least 50 meters from each other. It carried on late into the evening and we made our feelings known to them and it helped a little. Even the watchman and the camp workers thought that they were very noisy. Then camp has a nice bar, restaurant, TV room and swimming pool.

The hippos loved coming up during the evening and night. On our second night we were preparing food over a log fire when a fully grown hippo appeared just eight meters from us. You will be able to see how close when more of our photos hit our website. During the night we were awoken by two or three hippos belting through the camp, just a few meters from us. The ground more or less shook as they ran past. What startled them we don’t know. The night before I was awaken by something cold and slimy on me – thank god just a frog, but how did that get into the roof tent?? We moved to a better spot in the camp after the first night, because we wanted to get further away from the noisy Chinese. Good move! During the first night I was awoken with something cold on my leg. I went cold, because could it be  a snake which had manage to crawl up into the tent. Switched my torch on and found nothing, but Karen M wasn’t there and the tent was open. I was really sweating now – what had got into the tent? I started lifting pillows and then the mattress and there it was – a frog! Wow that was a relief. Karen came back from the toilet, just in time to see the frog being evicted. How the hell it got up into the tent I don’t know.

Saw Man United lose to Chelsea in the Premier League on the tv in the bar – shouldn’t have bothered.                                          

We decided to do an evening game drive, where you leave at 4.0 pm for a four hour drive, the last two hours in the dark. The idea is that you see more of the nocturnal animals you don’t normally see during the day. The trip was disappointment because we didn’t see much apart from loads of other vehicles                                                                                                                                                                                      

26.3-31.3

Before we left for Africa last year, I didn’t realise we would be spending so much time sitting and enjoying ourselves on the banks of lakes. I of course was thinking we would be occupied more with savanna and game, but Africa is turning into holiday resorts around lakes such as Malawi, Tanganyika, Victoria, Albert and the Indian Ocean, which makes these places as much a part of Africa as the bush. Livingstonia Lodge and camping place is one of the many tourists traps springing up and we enjoyed staying there, plus the use of the lodge which you have as campers. Lake Malawi has “Bilhartzi” so you have to be careful where you jump in. Here at the lodge they do not have the problem, so we enjoyed the chance to cool off in the lake.

One day while we were lazing around on the beach we saw a “brownish” smoke over the water. We asked one of the workers what it was – lake flies he said, millions of them. As we watched the “smoke” increased and now there were several instead of one. They very seldom give us problems ashore he said.

After a couple of nights we were on our way to Lilongwe, where we called into the Zambian consul to get a visa for Karen. She had to get her visa before reaching the border. They were very nice, but the info. we had was wrong, because we could both get visas at the border. We then called into Toyota to see if they could fix or change our radio, because we cannot play Cds anymore. They wouldn’t do it under warranty because the vehicle was from Europe. If they replaced the radio, we could get the money refunded when we get back home. When I inquired as to the cost of changing it, the reply was over 2000 Kr, which we were not prepared to pay, so Mr. Ashton will try and fix it himself. Did some shopping, but even so, we decided it had been a wasted journey to Lilongwe.

On the road again with our destination Liwonde National Park, where we had been before, but because of the diesel situation last time we were there, we didn’t see the whole park. Couldn’t get there in the time we had left, so we called into Forrest Camp at Zomba for the night. Here we met two guys from New Zealand. Mathew and his dad. Interesting talking to them both. Exchanged a few details. Next day on the road to Liwonde, where we arrived in the early afternoon. As we were talking to them at reception, a couple we have met twice before were just driving out. A good old “chin wag” before they left for Lilongwe.

We had decided to drive through the park to another camp site, not the one where we stayed last time with Ole and Anette when they were down here, but this was impossible, because the road had been washed away. Why they didn’t tell us about this at the gate I have no idea, it could have made us change our minds about going in. Stayed at the same camp as last time, but after all the rain everything was much greener  and the foliage thicker, which meant we couldn’t see as much from the camp as last time. Had a bit of lunch and true to form, we could see two elephants down in the water as we ate. Did a game drive, where we saw Elephant, kudo, impala, warthog, waterbuck and hippo in the distance.

Had a good chat with Peter who ran the camp and got a lot of info. from him about Botswana and Zambia, with a bit of Namibia thrown in. Other guest included a couple of guys from Hungary, a guy from Holland and a small group from various countries. We decided to try a night drive. You leave just after 8.0 pm and get back at about 10.0 pm. We were the only two going, which as it turned out was great. You have an old Land rover, a driver, plus a lamp man as he is called. His job is to make sure we can see the game. It was really strange to be doing a game drive in the dark, because normally this is the one time when you don’t drive through the park. We saw lots of hippo which had come up from the river to feed. One walked over the road right in front of us. They can walk over 20 km during the night, so you really have to be careful when you walk around after dark. We also saw bush babies, kudo, antilope and lots of birds, one type of which wouldn’t leave the road as we came driving along. Always afraid you were going to run it over.

Generally disappointed with the park, because as last time, we couldn’t see it all.

Left after two nights and went for Eagles Nest. Called into a local lodge on the way and had lunch. Got to Eagles Nest and got settled in. A couple from Italia and Sweden and who live in Germany were on the site. They were driving around doing the same as us. Their names were Charlotte and Andrea. They were really nice and we spent lots of time chatting and giving each other info. They left the next day, but we have agreed to contact each other again down in Capetown, because we expect to be down there at about the same time. The big monetary lizards are still here in the camp. Kevin who runs the lodge and camp is still here, but he leaves in May, having done what he was hired to do, and that was to get the place built up. Saw United and Munich play the first leg of their Champions League game, which the reds lost 1-2, but they should be able to fix that at Old Trafford. Not going out swimming as we did last time we were here, because of the threat of Bilhartzi. I like Eagles Nest, but it is one of the most expensive sites we have been on and is probably not quite worth the extra 500 kwacha per person it costs per day to stay here. I fixed some of the electrics for them at the campsite. Wires were just hanging down, which is pretty dangerous if someone just reaches up in the dark to switch the light on. I tried to mend the switch, but couldn’t, so I connected the wires and covered them so there was no danger and wired through an extra contact in the generator room. The night watchman when he arrives at 6.0 pm can switch the campsite lights on and turn off when all campers have retired to their beds. Kevin offered me a job – I said no and Karen said yes!!!       

 16.-25.3 Lukwe campsite and helping people in trouble.

The three big overland trucks left with their passengers during the morning, two heading north and one south. Now we had the beach and the campsite to ourselves, at least until someone else arrived. We hadn’t been able to buy much food during the last few days, so we were down to what we could mix with pasta and rice. Karen decided to wash the bedding, because there is a bit of a wind today, so it will dry quickly. The snake appeared again. It must really like our clothes while we are drying them on the line. It was a bit more difficult to get rid of it this time, but we got some decent photos of it this time, before it got fed up and disappeared up the tree again.

Went to the bar to see if we could get a sandwich for lunch. The owner said yes, but first I want to ask you a favour. “I have just got word that three tourists have had an accident on the way up to Livingstonia up in the mountains. He had no transport available, so could we drive up there and see what help we could give. We were on our way to Livingstonia tomorrow anyway, so we packed everything up and got on the road. The only information we had was that their vehicle had gone off the road and one of the occupants needed to get to hospital. The road up zig zags all the way and some of the hairpin bends you have to have two attempts at.

As we got up to the 600 meter mark we found them and what a shock, because we knew them. (we had met at two campsites earlier on our trip) Henvig, Guylaine and their son Samual were okay, but their vehicle was upside down about 6 meters down the slope wedged against a tree. The tree had prevented the vehicle going all the way down. Only Henvig was in the vehicle when the accident happened. Miraculously his wife Guylaine and son Samual  had decided to walk a bit, because they felt a bit unsure about driving on the road. God must have really had a hand in it. Henvig managed to crawl out with only a deep cut in his hand. He said the brakes just failed and he couldn’t do anything at all. They were of course happy to see someone they knew and we immediately began to help get as  much out of the truck as possible. Many locals were helping and Oak as he is called from the campsite Lukwe we were heading for, had also come down to help.

One of the immediate concerns was to make sure there was someone guarding the vehicle against theft during the night. Here in Malawi, the police will do it if you pay them and you have to go down and pick them up and take them down again in the morning. Oak from the camp sent his own guard down at six in the morning to take over from the police. Even so things are disappearing from the site. Oak and Henvig drove back down the next day to get any remaining things out of the vehicle. They were away all day and when they returned they told us they were attempting to get the vehicle up. This really shocked us, because I thought that the idea was to get the army to come with one of their heavy vehicles to get it up. They hadn’t succeeded in getting it up, but it would help if they could lend our equipment to help them. Of course they could borrow it, but our winch is not designed to pull a six ton truck up the side of the mountain and neither is the rest of it. They promised to be careful with it. I would have gone with them, but I had gone down with a bout of flu and it was bed for me.

Our whole stay here now is overshadowed by the accident, but we cannot understand their insistence on getting the vehicle up themselves. Any removal by experts will be covered by insurance, so why not let them get on with it!!! They arrived back just after 7pm and unfortunately hadn’t got the vehicle up.

Now we have gone into the 3^rd day and we hope they are successful. What is going to happen when and if they get it up, I don’t know.

It has been fun to come back to the Lukwe camp in the mountains. The only problem is that it is raining a lot at the moment. We stayed in a hut the first night, but now we are in the tent again, which we prefer. We haven’t much food with us, because it’s been impossible to buy anything, so we are eating (fantastic dinners) here at the camp instead. Today is Friday and we are hoping to carry on down south on Sunday or Monday and hopefully we can get away from the rain.

4^th day

They didn’t get the vehicle up yesterday, so now they are going down again to spend yet another day trying to get the truck up. What I cannot understand is that Oak and Henvig sit drinking until late at night and don’t leave to continue the work of getting the vehicle up before 10.0 am and work all day, the last two hours or so in the dark. We heard at about 4.0 pm that they had the vehicle on the road again.  All they had to do now was to tow it up to Lukwe camp. We went down to see how things were going, but it was slow work getting the badly damaged vehicle up the mountain road. We walked back home before it got dark. The men arrived with the vehicle in tow at 10.0pm. They had done it more or less without lights, which I think they were proud of. I think the whole episode has been too dangerous, but Henvig has got his vehicle up again.

We couldn’t get  our equipment before people got up the next day, but when we did get access to it, I was shocked at what I saw. All the equipment was new and had never been used before, so the fact that it was dirty was no problem – you cannot use it without it getting covered in mud etc. What I saw though was a winch that had been grossly overloaded, with chunks of the metal casing missing where it had been hammered by the jacking handle. An even bigger problem was the fact that it didn’t work anymore. The pulling strap was stretched and you could see the cords of the strap through the covering. There was also damage to the snatch block, but I excepted that back, because it still worked.

Henvig definitely could not understand my annoyance at the state of my returned units. We can take it apart and have a look at it was his contribution. I demanded a new winch and strap. When I told him what it had cost in Denmark, he said he didn’t have enough money to pay that much. It will be cheaper in South Africa I said, but it means we have to do without a winch, which has been our safeguard on our trip up to now. It will also mean we have to change our route, and not take chances of getting stuck. We had intended going up to Nyika park in the mountains, but without our winch it would be too much of a risk. We have altered our trip so we now go to Zambia then Namibia, where I hope to buy a winch in Winhoek.

Eventually to finish the story of our equipment, we got 300 Euro plus Henvig’s strap. We left Monday morning without a “sorry we damaged your things”, or caused you to stay here 3 days longer than you intended (and we had to pay for dinners as we had none left our self) OR even a beer. The last thing he said was your car is strong so you can easily go everywhere without your winch so you have no problem!!! We were glad to get away and on the road again. The only thing now is that we don’t tell anyone what equipment we have – because it will not be loaned out again down here – sorry, but we have learned a lesson the hard way.

Stocked up in Mzuzu and ended up in a lodge/campsite at Nkwhazi Lodge not far from Chintheche where we could camp overlooking Lake Malawi. On our own unfortunately, but I think people are shying away because of it still being the rainy season. There are a lot of lodges and campsites along Lake Malawi and most of them are empty at the moment. An old guy from England runs the camp from his wheelchair, but it was quite run down as lodges go, but the campsite was okay. Lots of fishermen out on the lake during the night with the usual lightning on the horizon. He had three dogs, which all sites have, but these were noisy and very nosey every time we had food on the table. The beach was okay and the swimming nice.

Left on Wednesday to travel further south along lake Malawi. Picked up a couple of girls who worked for peace corps and were on their way to Lilongwe. We heard a bit about the programs they were working on and dropped them after 150 kms, where they could continue with a bus to the capital. We got to Livinstonia Hotel and camping site at 2.0 pm. The campsite lies beside the hotel and is well looked after. Nice grass to camp on under the trees, just back from the beach. The lake is only 50 meters from where we are and to our left a bar with “cold” drinks. Plenty of monkeys around to make us really feel that we are still in Africa, both baboons and the smaller ones with “blue balls” as Karen says. We should be able to get onto internet here, but there seems to be a problem with it. Lake Malawi at the moment is nice and blue and with the temperature hovering over 33 degrees C we will have to soon go in for a dip.

04.13-16

Another one of our famous early starts, because the road to Mbeya is bad and will probably take us 9 hours to do the 245 kms. The guy from Zain who had helped Karen with the phone and computer came whizzing past. He didn’t have any load on his 4x4 pickup, so he could do the trip an hour or two quicker than we could. The road wasn’t too bad because it hadn’t  rained and the last 80 kms was tar. We felt as though we had just driven into paradise when we hit the tarmac. After 1340 kms and nine days on some of the worst roads imaginable, we had hit tar. I felt like going out and kissing the road – I didn’t though, but it was close!!!

Decided to stay at the Anglican Churches guest house and hotel just before Mbeya. What a beautiful place. Lawns lined by colourful trees, a hotel where all the rooms had animals names, a guest house surrounding a little courtyard (this is where we stayed) and facilities like table tennis, a football game and a playground for the kids. You could also see zebra and impala in the distance. Now it’s Sunday and we are on our way to the border with Malawi. All the people we passed on the road were in their Sunday best. Suits, colouful dresses were the order of the day.

Crossed the border without problems and headed south, Called in at a campsite where we would overnight, but as we drove in we could see it wasn’t something for us. The locals also have access, which is okay, but we would never get any peace. There were two Germans who were camping for the night, so we exchanged a bit of info. because they were travelling in the opposite direction. They were on their way to Tanzania on their way back to Germany after 18 months on the road. They were also not too pleased with the site and would move on the next day, not staying the two nights they had intended. They told us about a campsite they had left earlier in the day, so we decided to head for that. We arrived at Chitimba Beach Resort run by a Dutch couple an hour later. The site overlooked Lake Malawi and had a bar and restaurant – I ask you, what more do you need??? We quickly found a good spot and settled in. There were a couple of the big overland trucks in, but not a lot of people travelling with them.

The Dutch couple who own the site saw it advertised for sale, gave up their jobs in Holland and bought it and have now been here 3 years and enjoying every minute of it. Stayed for a couple of nights. Got a couple of odd jobs done on the car and Karen attacked the washing pile again which seems to keep building up. As she was checking the washing a snake was hanging just above her head. I heard a funny noise as Karen did the four minute mile to the other side of the car. It turned out to be a tree snake, green in colour and a meter long and harmless. We watched it gliding up into the foliage of the tree. Karen seems to be making a habit of meeting snakes.   

04-12.3

Left Rwanda, crossing into Tanzania at Resumu Falls. No real problems getting through, apart from the fact that they insisted that Karen needed a visa, which Danes don’t. They wouldn’t relent, so we had to pay for one. But this is the Africa that is now unfortunately immerging – make the whites for pay everything. Still don’t know why they insist on this course – it will bite them back in the future when tourists get tired of continually forking out. Anyway now I got that off my chest.

We had decided to drive out to Jakobson’s beach camp on the banks of Lake Tanganyika. The road down was okay the first 70 kms or so, then it was a mixture of mud, water, rocks, holes and corrugations we had to drive on, so we arrived in Nyakanazi and after a lot of driving around and help from some of the locals, we found a local guest house called Gold Coast. Where it got its name from I don’t know, but there wasn’t much gold about it. The car could be parked safely inside a small compound and we got a very basic room with a bed, and a bathroom, which was a hole in the floor, plus the usual bucket of water. It was clean and they were friendly. From the compound there was a beautiful view of the mountains. We ate some of our food sitting with the locals and Karen brought out some of our monkey nuts, which they loved. Didn’t get a full night’s sleep, because when Africans talk – they sort of shout and like to stay up late, but this was somewhat offset by their friendliness and willingness to help us with whatever they could.

On the road to Jakobsons  where we arrived during the late afternoon. There were two campsites and we chose the one where there were campers already camping. The site was only a few meters from the lake, where there was a little beach with 6 straw shelters and a lake that was so clean, you felt you could drink the water. The beach was totally enclosed making it very private. We enjoyed 5 nights here just lazing around, swimming, chatting to the others. We got quite a bit of rain, but it didn’t spoil our enjoyment at all. Karen of course got a lot of washing done and I did a service on the car, because I just couldn’t find a garage who could do it. The inside had to also be cleaned again, because the dust from the roads finds its way into everything. The sunset over the lake was out of this world – even the lake changed colour! On the day before we left we drove over to Ujiji where Stanley and Livingstone had the now world famous exchange of greetings. There is a monument where the meeting is reputed to have taken place and a museum, which we chose not to go in. 

It was hard to leave Jakobsons after five great days, but our journey has to go on. We are now entering an area of Tanzania which is reputed for its very bad roads, so from now on we just don’t know how long each journey is going to take. The roads are dependent on the weather, with rain being the worst sinner. From Jakobsons the road south towards  Malawi takes us through Katavi National Park and we had been warned about the Tetzi flies in the area. I John am particularly careful with these little beggars, having been bitten on the neck by one which somehow got into the car and it caused the whole area to painfully swell up. This road was bad and we didn’t get further than Mpanda about 200 kms down the road. It was dark when we got there and we had considerable trouble finding a place to stay. We got the feeling that people didn’t want us there. Two places we asked if they had rooms, told us abruptly that they didn’t. We eventually found a guest house called the Double P, which turned out to be the worst place we have stayed since we left Denmark over six months ago. We managed to get them to put sheets on the bed that had a mattress that was too big for the bed. We got two buckets of water for the toilet and washing ourselves, in a room that wasn’t too clean, but thankfully they put a guard on the car which had to be parked out front.

On the road again towards the next stop which was Sumbawanga, where after another hard day on the road we arrived after 240 kms at the MC conference centre, which stands for Marovian Church centre. They have a camping site which we never saw, because we decided to take a room with a view over the town. The centre is just like a hotel, so we decided we would take a couple of nights here before venturing out on the road again. Had a walk down in the town to see if we could get something for lunch on the road tomorrow. Met some interesting people at the centre. Two Dutch girls, a group of Danes, more Dutch, a couple of Germans and two guys who worked for Zain the telephone company we are using down here. Before you knew it, Karen had got them to look at our mobile telephone and the modem on the computer, both of which didn’t work properly. They fixed them with a smile – don’t know how she does it!!! Karen has just gone in to have a shower so we can save time tomorrow and “hey presto” no water. After talking to the janitor, we were shown the gents toilets, where you could still have a warm shower. So now it’s down the corridor to get scrubbed.   

The next leg of our trip down to Malawi should get us to Mbeya at the border.

02-03.3

Up early and would you believe it the sun was trying to shine after a night of the usual rain. The drive to the border was uneventful, but it was a goodbye to Uganda and some nice experiences. The border crossing was an experience we won’t forget in a hurry. It took just 15 minutes to get through all the formalities and all of a sudden we were in Rwanda. I (John) didn’t need a visa to get in, but Karen needed one which cost 25 dollars. We handed the passports in with mine on the top – and “Bobs your uncle” we got them back, no charge.

As we drove towards the capital Kigali our first impression of Rwanda was positive. Funnily enough though, here you drive on the right hand side of the road – well we did!!! No rubbish lying around on the road in –and  not even in Kigali. Motorists drove as though they had acquired a driving license by lawful means and motorcyclists wore crash helmets and only carried one passenger and not three as in Kenya. The condition of the roads we drove on were good and we quickly found our way to Hotel Okapi. We had a view over the whole city from our balcony. The city was pleasant to walk round in and they had some decent shops and you could get a good cup of coffee and a nice cake!!!

Waited until the second day before we visited the Genocide Memorial centre. You don’t pay to get in but give a donation that you see fit. As you walk through the memorial the whole gruesome story of what happened unfolds and it scares you to think that in 1996 to 1997, over one million people were systematically tortured and murdered, while the rest of the world stood idly by. The fact that Belgian especially was a prime factor in dividing the people, which eventually led to the Hutus turning on the Tutsis, was a fact I didn’t know. Before Belgians involvement the two groups lived together without problems, they even intermarried, went to the same schools and lived side by side, but all that changed rapidly. Germany also played a role of not doing anything when they were involved in the country and should have seen what was going on – but did nothing.   I left feeling very emotional about the whole affair especially when so many children were amongst the dead. All the skulls and bones you can see in their last resting place, really brings home to you the scale of the tragedy. If we had left them alone, the tragedy would never have happened.

Rwanda has come a long way in the few years since it all happened, but it will always bear the scars of loosing so much of its future, during those two fateful years.

Kigali is a beautiful city by African standards and we enjoyed walking around – you could nearly imagine you were in Europe. Tomorrow (4^th) we are on our way back to Tanzania. 

27.2-1.3

The hotel gave us an enjoyable stay, we really needed it to get dried out! Called in at Kabale on the way down to The lake at Bunjonji. A good road with some nice scenery greeted us and for once we made good time. The lake is the deepest in Uganda and as with most of the other lakes is okay to swim in, being free from any sort of pollution or bacteria. The camping site is beautifully laid out with palm trees planted all around the banks of the lake. The toilet and shower facilities are new, though for most of the time only with cold water. It’s the same old problem with dodgy electricity supplies being the order of the day.  

The lake is really beautiful and has over 40 islands you can sail to. They have a local market not far from our camp, where traders come from all the islands with their wares and try to sell them. We had a walk down there to see what was going on. You could more or less buy anything you wanted, from a cabbage to a pair of trousers. There are a lot of lodges/campsites around the lake and they seem to be competing for too few guests. They are even building a big new hotel 500 meters from where we are, when most of the units already here are really struggling to survive – more money than sense, or what???

On the second full day here we woke up to rain and a temperature of 16 degrees C and unfortunately it continued all day without getting warmer. We went for a walk around in the area more or less to keep warm and had our lunch up at the bar/restaurant and stayed there the rest of the day. We have decided we will move on tomorrow and drive to Rwanda on our way back down to Tanzania.

We don’t regret driving down here at all, but Uganda has generally been a very wet experience for us and when you are constantly trying to dry things a lot of the time, you want to move on.

22-26,02

Life has been good here at Lake Albert Safari Lodge. The temperature has fallen a bit since we were in Murchirsen. We managed yesterday with 33 degrees C, so we were happy. Met a couple of guys from Scotland who are working on a drilling rig her on the banks of the lake. The only problem is that the rig has been placed at the only place where the lake’s hippos and crocs reside, which resulted in them disappearing from the area. Oil seems to talk big, even here in Africa.

We left after two great nights here and hit the road for Fort Portal, but after a night of constant heavy rainfall, the road out seemed a bit tricky. The vehicle was all over the road – it was just like driving on a thick layer of custard. Even in four wheel drive we felt it was dangerous and when we passed a bus that had gone down in the ditch and couldn’t get out, we turned round and crawled back to the lodge. The “offroads” here are made of a type of mud (murum) and not shingle and they really don’t react well to heavy rain. The people here at the lodge haven’t seen so much rain before. Their own vehicle got stuck in an attempt to get some provisions locally earlier today and it gave up just as we did. We have to drive 200km on this type of road if we are going to get to Fort Portal, so we have to be sure we can get through. All being well tomorrow (23.02.2010) we will try again.

No rain during the night, so we took a chance and hit the road. First 30 km still had to be careful, then no problem really after that. Got to Fort Portal after about five hours. Had some lunch at the Garden Restaurant. It was mentioned in Lonely Planet, so we gave it a chance. They had a nice “local” buffet, which was good. Found our way out Amaheere caves and waterfall community campsite, which was our destination for tonight. The campsite is very close to a Technical College where some of our friends Svend Aage and Inger worked as volunteers. We drove over there and one of the female teachers offered to show us round, which of course we said yes thank you. The students, 500 of them were on holiday and commence their next term in a few days. The college is very big and has just been more or less re-built. In 1996, rebels entered the college and set fire to the buildings and vehicles, killing 14 students in the process and kidnapping a large group, with most of them being freed later by the Uganda military, but the whole episode has placed a dark shadow over the college for ever. There is a memorial at the college where the remains of the 14 are buried, so there will always be a constant reminder of what happened during those horrendous hours in 96.

The people at the campsite hadn’t seen a vehicle like ours before, so we had an audience for most of our time there. We had to use the toilets and shower in a guesthouse just at the side of the camp. Only problem it was locked during the night!!! Got some rain during the night, but it didn’t stop us hiring a guide to go up to the top of what I thought was a small mountain, where we could see three crater lakes. The view was worth the grueling climb to the top. The biggest problem was that we are over 1600 meters above sea level before we started the ascent, so we were gasping as we got higher on our way up. The tour also included caves with stalactites and stalagmites and a hidden waterfall which we had to more or less climb through a great deal of rain forest to get to it. We could even climb behind it, but you got a bit wet – what the heck it was worth it.

Not a big drive today because we are just going down the road to one of the most beautiful of the crater lakes at Nkurubu. Unfortunately it was raining on our arrival at the campsite, so we were in two minds whether to rent a “banda” or take a chance and camp. Firstly we were told that no “bandas” were available, because a Russian had reserved them all. Then they relented and said we could and after being quoted about six different prices for this one and that one, we decided camping was a lot less bother. It stopped raining, so we made the right choice. We found out later that the Russians were coming the next day, that is before they rang a cancelled the booking!!!

The lake was beautiful and the area was picturesque. The trees were filled with fantastic birds and monkeys, so we really had to keep an eye on our things. The Colobus monkeys are very rare and only found in this part of the world. They are black and white and have a long black tail with a white plume at the end. They entertained us swinging through the trees right next to us. We had a walk up the road and looked at the two campsites next to us. They all seem to charge about the same and will make you food if you ask. Our second night there we ordered something from the menu. I ordered chicken curry and rice, Karen ordered beef with boiled mashed banana. Tasted okay but my chicken was tough, if it was chicken?

Talked to some other campers who arrived the day after us. There were four of them travelling in an old Hilux (22 years old). They were from France, Israel, Holland and ------- can’t remember. Started  raining as we were getting ready for bed and carried on all night.

A wet morning greeted us, but we packed up and got on the road for Bunyonyi Lake, close to the border with Rwanda. It was still teaming down as we drove. It relented a bit as we crossed the equator for the umpteenth time. We just had to get a couple of photos! The rain was making it difficult to see the beautiful countryside we were passing through, so we checked in at the Lake View Resort Hotel in Mbarara for the night and hoped when we continued down towards the lake the next day we will be able to see something. We cannot camp anyway, because the tent is soaking wet from last night and as I write this at the hotel it is still raining very heavily. The receptionist said that it’s been raining for the last three weeks!

On the way to the hotel we managed to get onto the net to check our mail. We haven’t been able to do it for a few days. We got the sad news that Gitte, one of our Lesotho friends had died after a courageous fight against cancer. Our hearts go out to Thomas and his family and though we cannot be at the funeral on Saturday the 27^th in Denmark, we will be there in spirit. A sad day for all who knew Gitte.

John very popular at the school	John and Karen with Adong Sarah 13-years
At home with the “wrong” Sarah. The teacher, mother + 6 of 10 children	Karen with the Adong Sarah we know – 9 years today 18.2.1010

18-21.02

Sara’s story continues.

Once we got to the main road we took a left after finding out it was about 10km along the road to the village and the school. Driving in our beloved Africa though is never without its problems. We hit a series of road improvements, which in themselves were no problem, but we had to drive at the side of the road and here a couple of lorries had got bogged down in the deep mud which lined the side of the road. There was a queue of cars that wouldn’t attempt to go through and some were trying a detour to get around the mud, without too much success. Well here we were in our 4x4 and here was the perfect place to see what it could do. So Into four wheel drive and low 3^rd gear and off we went. No problem – the Hilux easily battled her way through, but the mud was deeper than I thought – about half a meter.

Anyway we found the school and Karen went in to see if she could find Sarah. I had to get the car parked. I managed this in the field where the school was, which was also the children’s playground. In about 30 seconds I was surrounded by about 500 kids wanting to look at the “white man” (mazungo) and shake his hand. Eventually I was rescued by Karen who came out of the principal’s office to find me. She was in doubt as to whether the girl they had found was “our” Sarah. The principal and teachers assured us it was. She was really very shy and we couldn’t really communicate with her. It was her 9^th years birthday to day and this girl was much bigger. They assured us that we must have got the wrong date. And it started feeling a bit imbaressing for Karen.

We decided we would like to meet her mother and the rest of her family. Off we went to walk the four kilometers to her house, followed by a host of students who also lived in the same direction. Sarah’s mother was sick and lay under a blanket when we got there. She quickly changed into a dress and came out again, where we sat with about eight of her ten children and she is expecting one more. We spent about an hour, with Karen giving Sarah the gifts of mainly clothes we had brought with us. One of the teachers had accompanied us and acted as an interpreter, so we could communicate with her mother and the kids. Karen was still in doubt about the right person as we earlier had got a letter written by the mother, and she didn´t seem to know anything about us - strange. Her little sister fell in love with the ball Karen had bought Sarah and promptly started to kick it around and before long it ended up in a tree.

As we all talked and got to know each other a little better a couple of guys came up on motorbikes, who apparently worked for the organization that had got us to sponsor Sarah in the first place. He told us we had the wrong Sarah – you could imagine how we felt! We ended up going back to the school to meet the “real” Sarah. Their office was in the school grounds, so we really wondered why the school hadn’t gone through the office, especially when we were unsure of Sarah’s identity in the beginning. Luckily we hadn’t given everything to the first Sarah, so we could still give Sarah “2” something. We also sponsored a school uniform for her. We ended up deciding to sponsor Sarah “1” as well, now we had got to know her. Before we arrived here we had tried to contact the organization regarding Sarah, but we never got any reply to our two letters.

A really strange day, where we met Sarah and also got a new one to look after – what the hell, they need it!

Spent the night at Will’s Comfort Inn in Lira. We had a little balcony where we could look down onto the road where people walked, cycled and drove by and a cheeky little lad kept shouting up to us. We could also watch a local football match being played just over the way.

On the road now to Murcherson National Park. Saw quite a bit of game going through the park and the falls were really fantastic. The volume of water pouring through was unbelievable – the ground was vibrating with the volume of it. Only problem was that there were Testy flies in the area and I got quite a few bites to show for it.

The camping site(Red Chilly) in Murcherson was one of the worst camping sites we have been on. Because our tent is on the top, we had to be content with camping in the car park. The car park was soon full of overland vehicles and the noise of doors going all the time and people standing right next to us and just staring, was just too much, so instead of staying the intended two days, we were on the road again next day. The temperature at 8.0pm in the evening was 40 degrees C.

Chose to drive out to Lake Albert Safari Lodge and stay there for a couple of days overlooking the lake and the mountains of Congo.  

14-17/02/2010

Tony and Adrianne	Bus in Uganda (Tall step)
(Faster in english is Aunt – as Karen)

Climbed out of bed at 6,0am – wow the things we do for a bit of fun!!! Thomas arrived on time and off we went in search of the Sipi Waterfall, or as we found out, waterfalls. The first part of the trip was up and up and I quickly realized how much time I have spent just sitting in the vehicle driving. I came huffing and puffing to the top and what a view of the whole valley. You could see for at least 50 km and it was breathtaking. Our guide Thomas took us the local way. We joined in a church service where the singing was simply fantastic with harmonizing, which made you really want to stop and listen – we did. We carried on through what was obviously reserved for the locals when going after water or just going from one area to another. We had paid for permission to come into the area, because to get to the foot of the falls you have to go onto and through private land and to do this you have to have a local guide. In this way everyone gets a bite of the tourist cake, which we think is okay. The money is given to and stays in the local area.

The falls were really worth the effort. We have seen many waterfalls on our trip, but each one is still special. We carried on and came to another waterfall which was completely different to the first and when we came to the third, which also gave us the chance to walk behind it, we couldn’t believe our luck. The trip back to the camp was straight down the mountain side – or so it seemed to my tired legs.

Thomas said on returning to the camp, that he thought we wouldn’t be able to do the whole climb. I don’t know whether people of our age normally don’t manage it or it was just how we appeared to him. I didn’t ask him.

Richard and Posey came over from the first camp we stayed at. Karen had invited them over for a COLD drink, which they couldn’t get at the camp. Most of the camps don’t have electricity at all, so warm beers are the order of the day.

On the road the next day, our destination being Jinja, which is the source of the Nile. Found a good campsite right on the Nile and in the evening a gin and tonic was enjoyed at the bar overlooking the rapids of the Nile – just as the sun set. The campsite wasn’t very big and the locals outside were very rowdy with music to match. Not to worry though everything was toned down later during the evening.

Next day we attempted to walk down the road from the campsite further down the Nile, but a security man with a rifle and on a bike came hurrying after us. We had to pay if we wanted to walk further down the road. Wow – they want us to pay for everything – well that’s the feeling we get. The locals can walk down there without charge, but not tourists. He did tell us that Ugandans from the city also have to pay – but of course not as much as us. We turned round and walked back, not because we couldn’t afford it, but we are a bit fed up of paying top dollars for everything we do and see.

You even have to be very careful when you cross the various borders because they charge you for visas even if you don’t need them. I found out after travelling through Tanzania, having paid 50 dollars for a visa, that British citizens don’t need one. That went into someone’s pocket.

Great though to see the source of the world’s longest river. Tomorrow we are on the way towards Kumi and what exciting adventures that will bring.

Well  it’s now tomorrow and we are on our way to Kumi. Had to fold the tent away wet, after a night of steady rain. The temperature the last couple of days hasn’t been over 23 degrees with overcast weather. As we got to Kumi the temperature was at its normal 30 degrees again, so we don’t have to get out the long underwear just yet. We intended visiting Save the Children centre in Kumi, but it moved last year. Instead we went into Action Aid to hear what they were up to. They are working on projects aimed at getting rid of child violence at home, especially against the girls in the families. Projects aimed at increasing knowledge of local agriculture are also one of their priorities. Found the local Holiday Inn where we will spend a night before moving on to our next goal, which is to find Sara our sponsored child down here. She live in a little village not far from here.    

08-13/02/2010

A day for cleaning the car inside, because the dust gets everywhere. If you don’t keep it clean the dust gets down your throat and it’s quite unpleasant. Not much water to do it with, which makes the job a bit difficult to do properly. The outside of the vehicle doesn’t matter too much taking into account the amount of water you would have to use. We just cannot be that wasteful. Karen got a load of washing done today as well, because drying is no problem at all.

Today the 9^th we left for Joe and Janet’s farm where we would stay the night camping on our way to Uganda. Of course they wouldn’t let us camp, they had got the guest room in the house ready for us. What do you do with these people – bless their hearts! This time we met one of their daughters Tania, who was lovely and it was very interesting hearing about her role on the farm, which was mainly working with the horses. We had our walk round part of the farm with Joe, Tania and of course you guessed it, the dogs. The dogs had a good wallow round in the dam, wetting us all in the process as usual.

Next morning we had breakfast together before we hit the road, when Joe said that we had two alternatives today. I looked at him not knowing what he was talking about. What he had done was to call Tony his brother who has a farm near on the way to the Ugandan border. We could camp with him and Adrian his wife, or use the campsite we had found ourselves. Of course we opted for Tony and Adrianne and armed with the necessary direction on how to get there took our leave of Joe and Janet. Hope we meet again sometime. Of course we got lost, so it ended with Tony coming out to find us. I should remind you readers at this stage, that signposts are a none existent commodity here and with no signs indicating the farm getting lost was relatively easy.

On arrival the usual army of dogs were on hand to greet us. Karen will really be into dogs before we get home I think. We camped next to one of their cottages where we could use the loo and the shower. Tony and Adrianne made us feel just as welcome as Joe and Janet had – it must run in the family. They have run their own safari company, but just do it for fun today, while at the same time looking after the farm where they have over 350 cows with 148 needing to be milked every day. Their personal assistant who was in charge of the day to day running of the milking area, told us that they will probably experiment with milking three time a day instead of the present two. It should produce even more milk per cow. At present they are getting about 1800 liters from the 148 cows on a daily basis. The one thing that surprised us was the fact that they milked by hand. Tony explained that one of the reasons was so they could employ as many of the locals as possible. They have 70 employees at the present time. Machinery to do the job would half the number of people needed.

We left the next day after a very enjoyable stay and a lot of info about Uganda and Rwanda under our belts. We are now on our way to Sipi falls in the shadow of Mount Elgon. The road was diabolical and it took four hours to do about 70 km. Found our campsite using our famous GPS. The name of the site was Twilight camp and it had a fantastic view of the falls, but the site was for tents. We had to stay in the parking area, which was okay, but people from the road could see us and kept us aware of the fact. There was no shade at all, so we decided we would see if we could find something better tomorrow. We ordered an evening meal which was brought to us, but unfortunately she only had stuff for vegetarians. It was okay, but was more or less fried onions and rice. We used our own beer which was cold, theirs wasn’t.

Next day we moved to Moses camp just up the road. Here we could park in the shade and the view was even more stunning than before. Thomas one of the people employed here at the camp will take us on a guided tour to the falls tomorrow, starting at 7.00 am in the morning to avoid the heat of the day. He washed then vehicle for us, which was quite dirty and I will have to clean the inside again because the journey to the falls was one of the dustiest road we have been on. Karen cleaned a lot of the dust off yesterday, but there is still a lot inside. We are going to make our own food tonight. We know our own cooking!!!     

01/02-07/02 .2010 

Life is good at Twiga Beach. Perfect temperature, camping on the beach, fresh fish and fruit/veg coming on a daily basis – how are we ever going to pluck up courage to leave this place??? Maybe those of you reading this think what’s all this to do with our African safari. The only answer is it’s just great and when you talk to other overlanders, it’s the thing you have to do. So why should we go against the grain!

We got wind of the fact that some of our friends from home were in Mombasa for a short golfing break. Lise and Jesper were taking a hard earned holiday in warmer climates than in Denmark at the moment. We managed to find out where they were staying, which was on the northern side of the city at the Nyalli Beach Hotel. We arranged to go and stay at the hotel for a day, with Jesper making the bookings for us. Really great to see them again. Our time together went so quickly, that we felt we were on our way again before we had even arrived. Thanks to you both – always nice to see a face from home.

We were now on our way back to Nairobi, with a stop on the way at Hunters Lodge just over half way. We found the campsite full of United Nations soldiers, or at least their tents covered ¾ of the area, with the bulk of the soldiers arriving tomorrow. We didn’t really know whether to drive on or stay. We imagined not being able to have any privacy, but we stayed and there were no problems at all. They were apparently on their way north to take part in a training exercise.

When we got to Nairobi on the 4^th of February and had a hard time parking the vehicle. The city is a nightmare with the traffic and when we eventually found a place we were packed in like sardines and they wanted the keys to the vehicle so it could be moved around as they had to get other vehicle out. This was definitely out of the question. You just don’t surrender your keys in the city which has one of the highest crime rates in Africa. We negotiated ourselves out again and were lucky to find a place in the shade where we we didn’t have to leave keys. After shopping, into Jungle Junction for the fourth time. Lots of Germans crowding the place out. Now I have nothing against the German race, but when it’s a crowd of 20 plus, it can be too much of a good thing. Four more on bikes arrived later in the evening and expected to be able to get something to eat. I was in the kitchen washing up when they came in and thought I was the chef. They were on the point of ordering, when I told them I was a camper who wasn’t about to enter the chef world. How much they understood I don’t know, because at no time did they speak English.

Left the next day for a couple of days at Lake Magadi. We tried a few weeks ago, but the road was closed due to flooding. We got to the lake, but the campsite we should have gone to is only accessible during the dry season, which is not completely upon us yet. We proceeded to the another one down at the hot springs, but the 12 km down to it were quite wet and when we came upon a vehicle that was completely bogged down with another vehicle called to pull him out, we decided to turn round and head back towards Nairobi, where we knew there was a campsite at Olorgesailie where we had stayed before.

Got to campsite and got settled in. We were the only ones there. We got hold of some firewood, so the evening meal was saved. Shame about Magadi, but the views on the way up and down were fabulous. We will relax here for a couple of days, then it’s on to Uganda.

One of the two cats that were here last time came wandering up to our camp, but it looked very sick, with an awful gash on the side of its head and as last time more or less blind with terrible infections in its eyes. It was obviously in distress and hungry. When it jumped up into the vehicle and onto the table licking our plates we had had enough. Unfortunately we couldn’t get it to leave, no matter what we did – water had no effect at all. With the cat being in the condition it was we didn’t want to hurt it. We eventually enlisted the help of a couple of the locals who look after the camp. The cat has been here since 1999. It apparently came from one of the nearby villages. They managed to get it to disappear using methods we couldn’t bring ourselves to use. We really felt sorry for the cat, but out here there is nothing you can do to help them.

Today the 7^th we went on the museum trip which is connected to the campsite. The whole area is an archeological paradise with artifacts and fossils dating back one million years. We saw the bones of a now extinct elephant species which was half as big again as the elephants we know today. We also saw the partially exposed bones of a hippo that was thousands of years old. The excavation sites are covered and scientists come back at intervals to dig further. We had a very interesting 2 hours with a guide who really liked his job, which reflected in the way he guided us round.

Very hot today, 33 degrees, but there is a bit of a breeze. We could see two giraffes down in the dale from our camp. A gin and tonic went down a treat a little later – wow this Africa thing is great!!!    

24.01-31.1/ 2010

Woke up to find our security guard had gone. He had been there all night to protect us from the wild elements. He had a bow and several arrows in case of an emergency. You could say your modern “Robin Hood” security guard. How he would be able to see to shoot something in the middle of the night we don’t know!!! As long as it wasn’t us he shot.

We had been able to use a room with shower and toilet, because there was nothing at the campsite. So a nice warm shower before we hit the road for Mombasa. The GPS was working a bit better today. We were directed to a lodge/campsite north of the city. It was nice, apart from the fact you could be forgiven for thinking you had just arrived in Bombay. As in quite a large portion of the countries we have visited, people from India seem to be everywhere and own lots of the supermarkets, shops, lodges and petrol stations.

On the road to Mombasa and now the GPS was in its element. We had coded a campsite/lodge north of Mombasa, but when we got there they had no campsite, just a lodge. It was right on the beach and we could rent a flat overlooking the beach and ocean for reasonable money. We wanted to camp though, so we drove through Mombasa, using the ferry and drove down to the south beach to Twiga Lodge and campsite. Straight away we could see a couple we had met in Nairobi. Great sometimes to see an old face!!! The camp site is actually the beach. It has plenty of shade with the palm trees. We think we could easily stay here for a few days. The facilities are ok and they have a restaurant and a bar with TV, so I hope we can see the game between United and city on Wednesday.

The campsite was pretty full, but still plenty of room, because you could camp where ever you wanted to on the beach. The locals came by everyday with fresh vegetables, fruit and fish, so we didn’t have to go shopping for more food. The people selling left straight away if you didn’t want to buy anything, which made the whole thing a pleasant way of keeping stocked up with fresh food. We don’t even get this service back at home!

On our second day quite a few people left (amazing what effect we have on people) and some others arrived later during the day. A couple from Holland also arrived, Eric and Boukje and we became very friendly. They camped at the side of us and we decided to go up to the restaurant and eat together. We had coffee back at the camp on the beach where I also lit a campfire and we talked to late into the evening. They were very friendly and we really enjoyed their company a lot. Eric offered to cook some giant prawns we had talked about buying for tomorrow  night, so we decided to pool our food and all help. The days are now flying by while we relax here for a while. The temperature her is constantly between 28 and 32, but there is always a nice breeze which really keeps us all from overheating.

The days alternate between bathing, reading, sleeping, talking to the friends we have made here. A German couple on motor bikes Ellen and Miki are now camping next to us. We have already met them in Nairobi. It’s nice to be able to get on really well with the other travelers around you and we are all exchanging information about campsites etc.

Karen and me went for an early morning walk down the beach and the camp’s guard dog “bella” came with us to make sure we didn’t get into mischief. She looks after all the campers and makes sure no one comes into the camp uninvited.

Eric from Holland proved to be an admirable cook and the giant prawns he prepared in garlic were a hit. The next night Miki and Ellen will also join us for the evening meal. Once again we will pool resources. You can really get used to this life here at Twiga Beach, but all things must come to an end. I John wanted to go further up the coast to Malindi, where we have heard it should also be nice, with two good campsites. Said our goodbyes and on our way back through Mombasa. A tar road all the way up, but that was the only good thing about it. The campsites were closed and had obviously not been in use for ages – so much for too much reliance on Lonely Planet. They beaches didn’t look too good with water very brown looking and not the beautiful blue we had left at Twiga. It was frustrating trying to find somewhere to camp, because there was nowhere at all. One place we given directions to, took a long time to find. We were chased by a group of young kids along the narrow dirt road and we couldn’t shake them off because we just couldn’t drive very fast. There was no one there when we got to the camp and not one single guest with everything locked up. We certainly didn’t feel safe at all. He promised to get a couple of guards if we wanted it. We left again pursued by the by now large group of kids. They were now trying to jump on the back of the car, which we didn’t like much – if one of them got hurt, then it would be our fault.

We eventually got back to  the main road and back into Malindi. Found a guest house where we could stay “bed and breakfast”. We had the whole house to ourselves. Three bedrooms, two bathrooms and a large lounge and a view of the Indian Ocean from the terrace. We decided we wouldn’t use them all. Ha ha.

Drove in to the town to eat at Karen Blixen’s pizza parlour. The town isn’t much to write home about. The only difference being that it was filled with Italians (not Indians). I especially, was very disappointed with the whole area. It had been a waste of time driving up the coast. We decided to go back to Twiga Beach for a couple of days. Called in at a lodge on the way down, but they couldn’t give us anything where we could park the car at the side. You have to think security all the time!

31.01

Now we are back at Twiga, where we can enjoy a few more days of bliss before we drive back to Nairobi and then on to Uganda. At least “bella” the guard dog was happy to see us again!  

24. to 27. of January 2010

24-27.01 – At the seaside

We had been able to use a room with shower and toilet, because there was nothing at the campsite. So a nice warm shower before we hit the road for Mombasa. The GPS was working a bit better today. We were directed to a lodge/campsite north of the city. It was nice, apart from the fact you could be forgiven for thinking you had just arrived in Bombay. As in quite a large portion of the countries we have visited, people from India seem to be everywhere and own lots of the supermarkets, shops, lodges and petrol stations Unfortunately they didn’t have a camping site, so we set course for the beaches south of Mombasa. Here we arrived after 45 minutes driving at Twiga Beach Lodge and camping. Straight away we could see a couple we had met in Nairobi. Great sometimes to see an old face!!! The camp site is actually the beach. It has plenty of shade from the palm trees. We think we could easily stay here for a few days. The facilities are ok and they have a restaurant and a bar with TV, so I hope we can see the game between United and city tonight (Wednesday)

The campsite was pretty full, but still plenty of room, because you could camp where ever you wanted to on the beach. The locals came by everyday with fresh vegetables, fruit and fish, so we didn’t have to go shopping for more food. The people selling left straight away if you didn’t want to buy anything, which made the whole thing a pleasant way of keeping stocked up with fresh food. We don’t even get this service back at home!

On our second day quite a few left (amazing what effect we have on people) and some others arrived later during the day. A couple from Holland also arrived, Eric and---------- and we became very friendly. They camped at the side of us and we decided to go up to the restaurant and eat together. We had coffee back at the camp on the beach where I also lit a campfire, where we talked to late into the evening. They were very friendly and we really enjoyed their company a lot. Eric offered to cook some giant prawns we talked about buying the next night, so we decided to pool all our food and all help. The days are now flying by while we relax here for a while. The temperature her is constantly between 28 and 32, but there is always a nice breeze which really keeps us all from overheating.

How long we will stay here we haven’t decided. Today is the 27^th and we will stay at least one more day – or maybe two­­­--------------

19.01

Spent the morning enjoying the sunrise from the bed, while Karen ran around taking photos of a hot air balloon lifting up from the camp down below,  plus the fantastic sunrise, then breakfast complete with a view of what was going on down in the park. Could see elephants, buffalo, hippo etc. Had to leave after lunch and try and get as far as we could in the direction of Nairobi. Need I say it – the roads did their best to slow us down. Driving past the Masai Mara we saw all sorts of game at the side of the road. It was just like being in the park.

We again had trouble finding our way, because we were on roads where we couldn’t always ask directions. We got to within 80 km of Nairobi and had to stop. We were too tired to continue. Found a little local hotel, where the car was safe and we had a bed.

Nairobi will be our destination tomorrow.

18.01

Did a game drive until 11.00am and then on the road for Masai Mara. We weren’t going in, but would use one of the sites outside the gate. Again the road was a disgrace even for Africa. We struggled along making very slow progress. No signs anywhere, but  eventually we got there, but where were the campsites. We could only find lodges and they are really expensive and not what we wanted to do really. We eventually ended up at the northern gate of Masai Mara where you could camp outside the park, but they wanted 25 dollars per person for putting your tent up in an open field. The weather gods were threatening to open the heavens, so all of a sudden we were more interested in a roof over our heads, especially as it was now getting dark.

We followed a sign up a steep road, not really knowing what we were going after and ended up at a tent lodge. It cost a bit more than camping, but it looked good and included meals. Our tent overlooked the Masai Mara, which in itself was worth the 7500 shillings we had to pay each. We enjoyed every minute of it. You ordered hot water and 20 minutes later it was delivered to your tent. They poured it into a bag at the back of the tent, then hoisted it up – and walla, a hot shower was waiting for you. The tents were complete with a fully operational bathroom and the lights were run from solar panels.

We felt a bit like royals, because we couldn’t do anything ourselves. We had to be careful though, because elephants could decide to come and pay us a visit, so when we went down for dinner, a guard was waiting to escort us down to the dining tent.

The bed by the way in the tent was the biggest double bed I have ever seen. I lost Karen several times during the night!!!

17.01

Got on the road early, because with the roads here you never can tell how long a trip is going to take. Kenya is proving to be the worst country we have been in up to now regarding road conditions. Today though was our lucky day, because we arrived at Ruma National Park quite quickly. The girl at the gate though didn’t know what she was doing and it delayed our entrance to the park by 45 minute. She didn’t know how much to charge us, or what facilities the camp site had, so she had to ring to find out.

We saw lots of game on our way to the site in the park – lots of giraffe, warthog, impala, harterbeast and a roan antilope, which is on the endangered species list. The camp site was fantastic, with a view over the savanna. The guard on the gate, which was close by, told us that a leopard with family was in the immediate area.

Strong signal on the phone, so we talked to both John G and Niels (Karen’s dad) from the camp. Built and lit a good fire for the evening. You feel a bit safer with a fire warming your backside as you keep a lookout for what’s going on around you.    

15-16.01

Joe had told  us about a trip heading for Eldoret where we visited the local supermarket, then on to Kakamega Forest Reserve where we parked under some giant bamboos for the night. It was a beautiful drive. First up the mountains, then down again, crossed a river and up again, zig-zaging all the time and it just went on and on. We thought we had plenty of time, but the C39 road (Eldoret via Kapsabet to the Forest Reserve) was full of holes and it took a long time. We asked directions for the campsite and a taxi driver drove in front of us and showed us where to turn. We couldn´t see a sign there, but we drove on and came to a Restplace/lodge where we couldn´t camp and they certainly didn´t seem to want us looking at our  dirty vehicle and we were not much cleaner etc. They told us that there was a campsite 2 km further down the road, just on the outskirts of the forest.. Now it was getting dark, so we were lucky to find it and it was ok. A bible get together was going on next  door with a noisy generator, but a lot of lovely songs being sung.

Next day we were on our way to an island Karen had read about in a magazine. Rusinga Island lies in Lake Victoria. The area on the way to Kisumu is beautifull and  the roads incredible. The A1 is full of potholes all the way and they are deep and very big!! The last 33 km was on a dirt road (this is what they called it, but there was no road) it took us over 4 hours, and as the guard said at the gate, this road is hell.

We were also stopped by a funeral on the road, you simply couldn’t get past. They were transporting the dead person back to his village. The road was blocked by dancing locals waving branches about, but keeping closed ranks so nobody could get through. One guy in a Landcruiser couldn’t wait any longer, so he tried to force a way through for himself, but the locals blocked him and banged on his windows in a menacing way. He eventually got through, but I think his vehicle had a couple of dents in it as a parting gesture from the crowd. After a few minutes they beckoned to us to come through and we did so without problems. We felt we had to show a bit of respect and it paid off. Came to Rusinga Lodge at 18.45 (20 mins before dark) – but it was closed because of lack of guests  and was only for  citizens of Kenya who had booked in advance!!! A guard on the other side of the road helped us by phoning the lodge and in the end they let us in! phew. We had to cross a landing strip and a vegetable garden, before we came to the “field” with a plastic cover for the shower and a half canvas for the toilet. The star filled sky and the lake were fantastic. We decided though to just spend one night and leave the next day for Ruma National park, just 50 km away.

14.01

Left for Lake Baringo a little further north. Sorry to leave Lake Bogoria, but we have to move on. Arrived at Roberts Camp in the early afternoon and liked what we saw. The camping site was shaded with many trees and we picked a good spot close to the river. We chose not to camp on one of the many paths that came up from the river, because this is the route the hippos choose if they want to pay the camp a visit during the night. An overland truck was also parked at the site and we had a chat with the driver. The group were out walking somewhere.

Went up to the restaurant and had some lunch. We decided we would have our evening meal up there as well. We had no meat left in the fridge and hadn’t had much chance to buy any. Built up a fire ready for the evening and relaxed by the lake. As the day drew on we could see that just a few yards further down a group of hippos were coming up to eat grass. Karen was off down there like a shot with her camera. I went down a few minutes later after she had probably taken 30 photos. Got talking to a German couple who invited us  to join them for a drink at the lodge next door.

Good evening meal at the restaurant, then next door for a drink. It is a bit of a risk going next door to the lodge, because you have to go right down to the river to get through the fence. Not really a good idea to go right down to the hippo and crock’s playground late at night. They opened a gate higher up so we didn’t have to risk being on the menu of some hungry crock.

Got back to tent late, back through same gate. Shame I had spent so much time getting the fire prepared, because we didn’t use it. A little present for the next campers.  Next morning we went down to the lake and we came across a lot of crocodiles sunbathing there!!! We left them to it. Never disturb your friendly crock.

13.01

We awoke without the sound of flamingos, but to the sound of a small overland group which arrived just as the light was fading last night. Even though we could see much more of the lake than we could see from Acacia camp, there was no sign of wildlife. After breakfast we went for a walk back to Acacia and decided we would spend another night in the park back at Acacia. Lazy day just gazing out over the lake and enjoying the flamingos just a few yards from us. Later on the warthogs put in an appearance, plus the zebras and not too many insects bothered us after dark. A fantastic night sky, pitch black, with the “milky way” as plain as anything – shame we had to climb into our tent. Good job we went back to Acacia.

  11. to 12. January 2010

Fish eagles surveying the fish menu!	An eagle surveying what’s on the menu
A zebra at Lake Bogoria with the flamingos in the background	An elephant has just died

12.01.2010                                                        

Awoke to the sound of flamingos on the lake, just 50 meters from our tent. What a fantastic sight, a mixture of white and pink. One of the rangers from the park came by to see how we were getting on. In fact we had been given the wrong ticket when we came in, so he just wanted to rectify that. He told us that two female lions are heading our way, so it should be interesting if we see them!!! He told us that apart from zebras, wild boars, impala, there were hyenas and kudu, so the campsite could get interesting tonight. There was another campsite 200 meters further along from where we had camped last night which he wanted to show us. From this one we could see a lot more of the lake and there was a hot spring with fresh water where we could bathe if we wanted to. We decided we would try the other site after our game drive. We drove further into the game reserve to see the hot springs and flamingos. After driving about seven kms, we saw so many flamingos that the lake was a mass of pink and white. It was a fantastic sight and we couldn’t really believe what we were seeing. Add to that hot springs all around, spraying hot steam and water several meters into the air, with zebras and impala walking through the whole area and you have something that is difficult to get into your head. We had lunch after we found a shady spot, where we could just take in the whole panorama and atmosphere and get into our heads that it was really happening to us!!!

When we got back to our new campsite and we were still the only inhabitants, we just got the fire set and Karen got the mosquito net ready for the evening. We then went and had a bath in the hot spring. No problem when you are the only ones for miles around. It was really hot though, 46 degrees centigrade.

11-01

So it was time to leave Janet and Joe. It was actually hard, because they had made us feel like family. We had breakfast together as we have done all the three days it’s been our fortune to be able to stay there and than goodbye. They have a big wedding at the end of the month when their daughter Anita gets married and the whole arrangement will take place at Janet and Joe’s farm. We wish them good luck with the whole thing – they deserve it.

Joe had given us a more exciting route to Lake Bogoria Lake Reserve, which was our next destination. The road was terrible, but the scenery was out of this world, just as Joe hinted it would be. One of the great pluses on our trip has been the continued advice and help people we have met have given us regarding destinations and places to camp.

We arrived at the reserve and after half an hour delay, while they decided at the gate how much we had to pay, we were through. We went down to see Fig Tree camp which was the first one we came to, but after driving down a very narrow 4x4 road with no chance to pass any oncoming traffic, we decided even before we saw the camp we would drive onto the next. The camp was partially flooded and very overgrown with trees, which was a haven for the baboons and mosquitos. There were a lot of flamingos around the camp and a couple of hot springs gushing away.

Drove to Acacia camp about 10 kms down the track. This was open with a wonderful view of the lake. During the evening we saw zebra, warthog, and impala and of course flamingo. At the moment there are many flamingo here because they like the warm lake and the food it produces. They eat a form of sea weed that grows in the lake, even in spite of all the sulphur all the hot springs around the lake produce.

We stayed three nights and really enjoyed our stay in this fantastic reserve.

Joe and Janet and most of the dogs.	Great dogs welcome us (9 all together)
View from Rawhide Farm

08.01-10.01

Left Jungle Junction and headed for Joe and Janet’s horse farm north of Nauru. We met Joe and Janet in Tanzania and they invited us to stay with them for a few days. Again we drove through some fantastic countryside on our way past Lake Elementeita on up past Lake Nakuru. Stopped for a bit of lunch to enjoy the view. Janet had given Karen instructions on how to get to the farm, so we got there without any real problems. They made us feel very welcome at once and showed us the guest house where we could stay. A beautiful newly built house with two bedrooms, two bathrooms plus two lounges. Yes it could be divided up through the dividing door into two dwellings. Joe had done a lot of the interior fittings himself and ended up with a beautiful house – one of which we never expected to have the pleasure of living in while we were here.

They had nine dogs, who all came galloping to meet us, but Karen who is scared stiff of dogs, took it all in her stride. As well as the dogs they have at least as many cats and over 300 animals, more or less equally divided between horses and cows. The farm is green and beautifully situated with rolling mountains as a backdrop. Joe and Janet have only been here 12 years, but the work they have put in to get the farm to stage it is at now, is nothing short of remarkable. Their daughter Natasha who looks after the hose side of things was on holiday while we were there, so unfortunately we didn’t have the pleasure of meeting her. They have about 50 employees who work daily on the farm.

They have their own water supply, but would like to further increase the supply so they can irrigate. They have enough water for their own needs, plus watering of the animals, but because it has been very dry for a long time now, the need to water the fields is becoming a necessity. We ate our meals together with Joe and Janet and have really enjoyed their company immensely. We have really been spoilt and really have felt at home – thanks a lot to you both and we hope the farm continues on its upward spiral.      

1/1-7/1-2010

What does he want?

At Equator

Typical market at a small town

 
The Football ground at stadium (with cows) 

Can I have this dance?

Us at Karen Blixen's Farm

07.01

A bit of shopping for a few essentials, then off to Karen Blixen’s farm. We had a guide showing us around the house and it turned out to very interesting. The house we could remember from the film Out Of Africa, where they had used the outside of the house in the film. The inside they couldn’t use so in the film the inside was a set built up at Universal Studios. It was strange to see the house and gardens realizing the importance it has for Danish history.

Had lunch at the Karen Blixen restaurant. We sat in the garden, but of course the rain came, so we had to move in. Back to the camp. Garmin cannot lend us a unit we can use until we get ours return. All part of Garmin’s policy of no service at all. They even suggested that I had to pay to have the unit sent to Europe. I won’t write here my answer to that.  

06.01

A day at camp.

05.01 Tuesday

Left the camp and drove to Nairobi into Garmin at Wilson airport. Left it with them to look at and they would ring to us. Next on the list was Zain, because our phone or internet is not working properly. They told us that our set up wouldn’t work – the same set they had sold us a few days ago!!! No more about that, we left the shop several days later and it worked – no no no, I’m only kidding- it was only a couple of hours.

Did a bit of shopping, then back to Jungle Junction. Lots of big trucks there when we arrived. The Germans especially, drive through Africa in monster trucks, not your ordinary 4x4. The grass was still very churned up and muddy. Rang from Garmin and they have to send the unit to Europe. That’s all we needed, but it was the only solution. Asked if we could borrow one, but they would let us know – not too optimistic though.

04.01

Went for a walk down to the river and just stayed around camp. Later during the day, five Danish girls appeared on a guided tour. Of course all wanted the chance to talk a little Danish – well maybe not me! They all had been working for a Danish organization, where they stay with a local family in a village for six weeks or so. I say they work for a Danish organization, but they pay 25000 Danish crowns for the privilege.

No rain today and the temperature is a good deal higher than in Nairobi. 32 degrees!

03.01

Relaxed at the camp. No good trying to drive anywhere, because of the flooding around us. Best to stay put a bit. That evening we had torrential rain. I was in the middle of doing the baked potatoes in the fire, but the rain extinguished that in no time. We moved the car closer to a “banda” which we had been given the key to, so we could shelter from the storm. As we looked out a river was flowing through the camping site. The storm abated later so we could finish preparing our food – but without the grill!!!

02.01

Left Fish Eagle Lodge and made for Lake Madega. The lake is not as high up as either Nairobi or Fish Eagle, so we were hoping for warmer weather. We had to more or less drive into Nairobi to hit the Ngong road, which would take us out to the lake, about 120 kms from Nairobi. After a bit of asking and navigation from Karen we were at last on the right road. It had rained hard during the night and we could see plenty of streams and small lakes at the side of the road. All of a sudden the road in front of us disappeared under a river of water. We judged it not to be too deep and we got across without a problem. Further on though we had to stop because the road had disappeared under a lake. We decided this was a good place to have a cup of coffee, while we pondered over what we would do next. A truck came rushing by and ploughed into the “lake” and you guessed it he got stuck in the middle. After a while a bus came and ventured in and towed him out. His engine was shot because of the ingress of water through the inlet manifold, so you could say he had just ruined his engine. A four wheel drive came through the water towards us, but he advised against us attempting to go through if we didn’t know the road. We decided to turn back and go into a campsite we had passed earlier. This site turned out to be really good. We had a view of the mountains and the valley. We could hear the water down in the valley roaring through on its way to lower areas.

The name of the camp eludes me, but what a find. The facilities were good – long drop and cold shower. There was a group of Kenyan/English campers there so we had a bit of company. 

01.01

So it’s the first day of the New Year. 2010 – What’s it got in store for us??? One of the quietest we can remember. Great room with a balcony and we relaxed all day reading and enjoying the sunshine. Walked down to the lake and met Peter and Janet again, two local people we met in the restaurant last night. Peter has been in America studying and had just started his own firm here in Kenya.

26. of December 2009 to 1. of January 2010

01.2010

First day of the New Year and the sun is shining. Have moved to a better room with a balcony, where I am sitting while I write this. We will stay one more day then on down to the lower heights where it’s a bit warmer.

31.12 Happy New Year!!!

After a good breakfast buffet we were on the road to lake Navasha, where we hope to camp for the night. Just as we left the lodge, Karen said “what’s that in the field there, it looks like a Rhino” and sure enough it was, but not just one, but up to a hundred. We just couldn’t believe our eyes. There were both black and white Rhinos and just to make things more interesting, there were also Buffalo, Sable Antelopes and Zebra. We were so close to them that we didn’t need our binoculars to see them – and just think the whole show was for free!!!

Further down the track we ran into some foul weather. It got really dark and started throwing it down, then as hail. We pulled off the road, because you couldn’t see a hand in front of your face. Arrived at Lake Navasha after witnessing an awful accident on the main road. There were all of a sudden lots of people helping, so we squeezed through the damaged vehicles and got away from the scene. You have always got to be a bit careful before getting involved. They could all of a sudden implicate us in the proceedings – being white, probably with lots of money (wrong on that one). The Kenyans are awful drivers, the worst we have experienced in Africa – so you have to be really careful.

They had a room at the lodge which we took. Nothing much happened on News Years Eve, which was a bit disappointing. They hadn’t prepared any special food for the occasion in the restaurant. We sat on our own more or less, but talked a bit with a Kenyan couple Peter and Janet who had driven down here to get away from the routine of home.

30.12

Left the camp driving towards Meru. The map showed a short cut which was considerably shorter than the main drag. You are always a bit apprehensive when taking short cuts in Africa – it could prove to take much longer because of the condition of the road. Luckily for us the road was fine. We only had the humps on the roads and slow trucks to contend with. Called in to Meru Hospital to see if we could find an old acquaintance (Helen) who used to work there. Unfortunately she wasn’t there and nobody knew where she was. The doctors and nurses were really helpful.

Spent the night at Naro Moru River Camp. They had a camping site but we thought it was too cold and the danger of more rain was imminent. Really beautiful gardens around the lodge and the evening buffet was good. I wasn’t feeling too well, so a real bed was most welcome.

29.12

A day generally relaxing in the mud bath that the camping site had become. A shame really, but when the soil contains so much clay, the water just stays on the top.

Pasta was the order of the day for our evening meal.

28.12

Decided to stay at Jungle Junction for maybe three nights. Drove out to Wilson Airport where Garmin have their service centre. Unfortunately they don’t return to work before Monday the 4^th of January – in other words in a week’s time. On the way back to camp called in at Zain Nairobi to alter our modem and phone. Unfortunately they decided to have a fire drill as we were waiting our turn. Took a while before we got in again and finished our business. Shopped on the way back to the camp. Nairobi seems a much pleasanter proposition than Dar. Seems a lot more European in its layout.

27.12

A local mechanic arrived on the scene to look at the Land cruiser. He stripped down the whole axle and then disappeared after spares. After making sure that Pete and Liz were in safe hands we left for Nairobi. Road not really bad on the way in and not too much traffic. Found our way to a campsite called Jungle Junction, given to us by Pete and Liz. Here we met John and Marina again who we met in Tanzania. We were immediately invited to a “Braai”. Here we met the rest of the people staying at the site. There were Germans, Brits, Australians, South Africans. This is obviously a place for overlanders like us to meet. The place had several advantages, good toilets and showers, central for Nairobi, a house where you could go if the weather turned nasty. Later in the evening Pete and Liz turned up. The local mechanic had got them mobile again, so they could get to Nairobi. Great to see them again!

26.12 cont.

Hunters Lodge was a fine place to stay and when it was built it was shear luxury, but as with so much in Africa, it is now in a state of decline. Nothing has been maintained so it has an appearance of a forsaken paradise. Shame, but we enjoyed our stay anyway on the campsite. Had lunch at the restaurant because we didn’t fancy cooking today. Met Pete and Liz from England. They shouldn’t have stopped here, but they had problems with their Land cruiser and didn’t dare try to travel further. It turned out to be a front outer wheel bearing that had collapsed and had damaged the hub and disc and pads.

16 to 26 of December 2009

26.12

Tsavo generally a disappointment. Not many animals at all. The camp site was good with showers and toilet. So now we are on the road to Nairobi. Stopped at Hunters Lodge for the night, where they have a small camp site at the back.

25.12

Spent the day driving around in Amboseli, heading in the general direction of the gate towards Tsavo. Saw lions, buffalo, hippo, elephant, so we were pleased. We were now on the road to Tsavo. The road was very waterlogged, but we were making good time. We came to a road block where they just noted the details of the vehicle, then the military guy said you will need an escort!!! I just looked at him and of course came the usual question, why??? Apparently there have been a series of robberies involving tourists – so the answer was that all tourists had to have an armed escort in the vehicle until they reached the park gates. So we waited, but because there were not any escorts available, he told us to catch up to the other vehicles which had left the road block minutes before, so we could share their escort. We didn’t catch them – well in a way we did, but they had just got over the other side of a bridge before a real deluge of water changed the area in front of us into a fast flowing river. They shouted to us not to try to drive through, because they had narrowly missed being swept away in their landcruiser. We of course decided to stay put. The shouted over to be careful, because a cheater was roaming around in the area. I climbed up onto the vehicle to see if I could see it, but I couldn’t. We would have to be careful though. We decided to have some lunch while we waited. Just then a landcruiser came driving up behind us. A German couple, their son, driver and escort. They were definitely not going to attempt to cross either. Karen made coffee and tea for everyone and we discussed the problem at hand – how do we get across??? The consensus of opinion was to wait for the level to drop. The problem was, apart from the depth of fast flowing water, which we estimated at 50 -80cms was the mud it was bringing with it which made the bottom very slippy. We waited for 90 minutes, then Karen equipped with a pole ventured out to see how deep it was. It came more or less up to her knees, but she got to the other side okay. The other driver was still unwilling to attempt a crossing, so I jumped in our vehicle, engaged low ration second and off we went. No problem of course for a Toyota. The others seeing we could get across followed suit.

Got to the camp site and decided to relax and see the game tomorrow.   

24.12

Spent a day game driving and had our lunch at Serena Game Lodge in the park. Karen had booked it yesterday and what a spread. There was nothing they didn’t have, even Christmas pudding and custard. We had a most enjoyable 3 hours at the lodge while it rained. When we left at 3.0pm it had cleared up. We had decided to drive past another camp site where we could also stay. We reasoned that it couldn’t be any worse than last night. Again the heavy rain had played havoc with the roads and it was difficult to keep the car on the road. On arrival at the camp things looked good, until the guy asked for money to get in. No we said, we have put the whole lot on a “smart card” which covers two nights camping in the park. Not here he said – we are communal and you have to pay separately. This is not what we were told at the gate we said, but we were getting nowhere. We really felt that at that moment we were paying through the nose because we are tourists and not getting what we are paying for. The fact that we had paid 50 American dollars to camp for each evening in the park didn’t mean anything. The guy was okay and could understand our feelings at having to pay twice for the same thing, but we decided to pay again so as not to cause any bother. He even offered to let us stay free, but we didn’t think he should lose out on it.

Apart from all the Masai coming up to us all the time our night went okay. A bit strange to think it is Christmas.

23.12.09

After a peaceful night with only the occasional distant lorry on the gravel road breaking our solitude. The sunrise was fantastic. On the road to the border post at Namanga. The road improved dramatically, with long stretches of tar, which really made the going easier than yesterday. No big problems at the border. Well when I say no problems, they still don’t know how to fill out the Carnet de passage. I couldn’t convince him that he had to fill out more. I’ll do it myself later. It took 75 minutes to get all the paperwork done and get through. Two friendly bikers put us on the right road for  Amboseli Safari Park after we had got hold of some money. “It’s a bad road” they said, but what have we been driving on most of the time over here we thought. The road was bad though, so no surprises there. Arrived at the park and surprise, it was even more expensive than the parks we have been in to date. You have to invest in what they call a “smart card”, but I think it’s more smart for them than us. You cannot use money in the park, except at the lodges, so you put money into a “smart card”, which you use instead. The only problem is that there is only one place in the park where you can fill your card up – yes you guessed it, the main gate where we come in. This means you have to know exactly how many days you are going to stay, even before you see the camp. If you put too much money on, there are no refunds – smart eh! Hence the name. We decided two days in Amboseli and one in Tsavo, which has to also go on the card. Hope we have this worked out right. We ended up paying 85 dollars per person per day. The guys on the gate were very friendly and really liked the way Karen was working out the amounts in shilling and dollars. One of the guys said with a smile on his face - she must be an accountant. The guy behind the desk was as well, so a lot of dealing went on.

The park looks very dry, but we saw buffalo, elephant, hippo and zebra on our way to a view point where we could eat lunch. Met a Belgian couple there who were just leaving. They had just come from Tsavo (where we are going next) and said the animals are queuing up to be seen there. We went up to the view point to have some lunch and the birds were waiting there to pinch it. If you had your sandwich in your hand for too long in between mouthfuls, they would steal a chunk. I was too quick for them – most of the time!!!

All of a sudden we could see a dust storm approaching and it was a case of getting down to the car and sitting it out. During the dust storm it started to rain and that developed into a tropical storm, which meant we were going no-where. It was time for coffee and biscuits, which we had hurriedly thrown into the cab. The storm was on us within seconds. We just sat it out. When the whole thing had died down we continued towards the camping sight where we would spend the night. The roads had really become rivers and it was difficult to drive, but we got there. The camp was a big disappointment. No showers that worked and the toilets were not fit for anyone to use at all. After a meeting at the park headquarters which are just at the side of the camp we were allowed to use the toilets and shower in a “banda”, which is a house you can rent. 

22.12

Up early for a game drive before leaving the park

On our way to Kenya, with a stop around about Arusha. Didn’t find anything at all, so we ended up on the main road from Arusha to the border with Kenya. We didn’t find a single place to stay, so we kept driving on a terrible road that kept our speed down to 10-20 km per hour. Pulled off the road, because now it was getting dark. Drove a bit away from the road, because even though it’s a bad road – it’s a main road and the trucks make a terrible noise as they trundle past. Wasn’t long before a Masai came to introduce herself, but she was just being friendly and of course nosey. She had never seen a roof tent before and I think our truck intrigued her a bit.

Decided on pasta for our evening meal, because neither of us wanted to start cooking when it was so late. The telephone rang twice, one from my brother in law and one from my father in law. Great to hear a voice from home when you are sitting in the middle of nowhere. Bit cool this evening. Funny – the closer we get to the equator the cooler its getting.

21.12

We visited Usa River, just outside Arusha, where we were on a course for three weeks, before we started our work in Lesotho in 1983. The centre has completely changed character since we were there. Instead of DVTC (Danish Volunteer Training Centre) where the emphasis was on preparation of Danes for a period of work in Africa. Now the centre is called TCDC (Training Centre for Development cooperation) where mainly it’s people from East Africa who are attending the centre. The guy in charge is still Danish but Mellemfolkelig Samvirke are soon to be amalgamated under the name of Action Aid and np more volunteers are to be sent out in the way they have been doing up to now. We will follow with interest what happens now with Demarks involvement at the centre.

We had heard that Arusha National Park hadn’t got too much game at the moment, so we chose to visit Tarangire National Park instead. Again we needed to raid the bank book to get in. The park is renowned for its Baubab trees and we camped right under a big old fellow. The tree was so big, that a Belgian couple who were camping on the other side of it couldn’t see or hear us and visa versa. We saw more elephants than we have ever seen at one time before. At one point we could see several hundred at the same time and were completely surrounded by them – absolutely fantastic. We were also lucky enough to see four cheetahs at one time. We were watching a group of elephants under a tree, when they started moving away. A head popped up from behind the tree and at first we thought it was a lion, but no it was a cheetah, who was then followed by three younger cheetahs (her cubs) and they began to stalk an antelope. Didn’t get it though. We were lucky to have seen them!

19-20.2009

On the road again through some fantastic countryside with waterfalls and fantastic views down in the dale we were on our way down to. Arrived at Honeybadger Cultural Centre where we were made to feel very welcome. We had to be careful when we drove in because two large tortoises were on the loose in the camp site. Drove into Moshi to get a few things and we succeeded in filling our gas bottle up. Mind you they saw us coming. We had to pay £8, which for Tanzania and the wages they earn, is completely out of proportion – but we are white and we can afford to pay. We had a good stay at Honeybadger, with the high point being an undisturbed view of Kilimanjaro.

17-18.2009

Had a walk up the side of the hotel to see the view and I tell you it was fantastic, we even found a cave a bit lower down where it was a bit cooler – but what a view. Had some lunch at the hotel, then on the road to Swiss Farm Cottage in Lushoto (not Lesotho). This was a paradise where you could just have been in Switzerland. Anna Caroline from Tanzania who was a part owner welcomed us. They didn’t really have a camping site, but plenty of fields around the property where we found a good place to camp. The power was not too reliable, so they had their own generator they could use, so we always had power until 11.00pm. They were in the process of building new houses and have big plans for the future. We relaxed, climbed the mountain (or big hill) overlooking the property. The second night we were there though a dog kept us awake all night with its barking – so we decided to leave the next day, even though we had intended to grab an extra day.

16.12

Left Sunrise early. Had to get the ferry and get through Dar and find a shopping centre where we could buy a few things. Headed out towards Segera where we would stay at a hotel where they have a camping site. Took the wrong road out of Dar. If we had kept to the main road we would have been alright. This road ended up being a nightmare to drive on and it was very slow progress. Get to Irente View Cliff Lodge. It was  nearly dark as we arrived. A guy welcomed us and began to show us the camp site and facilities. We were astounded because the facilities if you can call then that were awful and the guys could just keep an eye on everything we did all night. It was then we found out that this was not the camp site, it was further up the road in front of the hotel. We found a place to park in the hotel’s parking area and after the shower was repaired (there was no shower head – it had been stolen) we were okay. There was a gaping hole in the middle of the parking lot, so we parked the vehicle right over it. Crazy if one of us fell into the hole and broke a leg or something!!!         

 9. to 15 of December

15,12

Gps delivered back to the resort, but without one of the cables I sent with it – they had lost it!!! Had dinner with Tony and Meunne – really enjoyable, a really nice couple.

14.12

Back to the mainland with the  quick ferry. We later heard that the problems on Zanzibar can last up to 3 months. They are changing the sea power cable from Dar to the island. Everyone is scrambling around trying to get hold of portable generators, but there is none left to get hold of. Anyway it isn’t our problem anymore.

Arrived in Dar, had lunch, a bit of shopping and Karen bought some new frames for her glasses which had broken – then back to Sunrise Resort where we had left the car. Rang to the guy who was fixing the GPS, only to find out that he couldn’t fix it.

13.12

We were picked up at the hotel at 9.0am because we had booked ourselves onto a spice trip. Zanzibar is known as the Spice Island, with lots of the spices they grow earning them valuable foreign exchange in exports. We were only four people on the trip. Karen and myself and a woman from Germany and a guy from Canada. Our guide was young and friendly and knew what he was talking about. A spice farm is nothing like you would expect. We of course think in terms of traditional farms from back home, but nothing could be more from the truth. As you enter the farm you go into a wood – not a field. As you progress through the wood you come into contact with all the spices growing side by side. They are in the form of trees, bushes or palms. We had a group of young lads who followed us around and as we progressed they made various items which were given to us to either carry or wear. Everything was made from the leaves or bark of the spices we were being shown. I ended up with a bag filled with spices picked on our way round, a hat, a tie and a bracelet.

I can’t tell you about all the spices, but one of them I can mention is cinnamon. It comes from the bark of the tree, but only the bark. Then wood in the tree doesn’t have any taste at all. Once you have removed the bark to get the cinnamon, the tree replaces the bark itself – and so the process start again. On the way back to Stonetown we called in to see the ruins of a “Spa Baths” used by one of the earlier “Emperors” who lived in Stone town. He travelled out there just to get a glorified bath. I John, went down into a “slave cave”, where they hid slaves until they could sell them or just get rid of them. They were hidden for periods of two to three weeks in the caves, because it this time it was not really legal to buy or sell people.

Ate at Mercury’s restaurant in the evening. We sat with our table overlooking the harbour. Still no electricity, so what do you do in the name of honour – yes you drink warm beer with Karen coming up the rear with warm water - maybe I exaggerate a little. They were not busy really. Walking in the waters of the harbour we saw several people with powerful lights and spears. The light attracts the fish and POW – the poor thing doesn’t know what hit it.

At the hotel we had a bucket of water.

12.12

Great breakfast on the roof and no sign of the rain from yesterday. Spent the day exploring the town – easier when you can see where you are going. The town is very interesting, but you have to be careful in the narrow streets, because they bomb through them on scooters and motorbikes. Found Zanzibar coffee house where you could get a good cup of coffee and homemade cake –mmmmmm!.

We intended eating at Mercury’s restaurant down at the front. It’s named after Freddy Mercury who was born on Zanzibar, but we never got there. We saw a lot of people (several hundred) gathered under a cloud of steam and more or less surrounded by delicious smelling food. Vendours, lots of them in the market square, mostly attired as chefs, produce tons of food – all types of fish, meat, fruit, food and drinks etc. You just go round and by what you fancy and sit down where you can and eat or drink it. A fantastic atmosphere, which is created every night. It’s not exactly cheap, but good.

11.12 Friday

Petty Officer Opiyo from the navy came to pick up our GPS. He is an expert in navigation systems. So here is hoping he can fix it for us. Left by taxi for the Dar ferry, because we were on our way to Zanzibar for three days. After getting off the ferry on the other side, we had to draw out some money, because all bills have to be settled cash. While I was over in the bank waiting to draw money, the local hit men were giving Karen a hard time. They just latch on to you and they won’t take no for an answer. Whether they are selling souvenirs, drinks or tickets they just keep on at you. I think she was relieved when I appeared again and we managed to get rid of him. The same happened down at the ticket office for the ferry. You are more or less attacked by people selling ferry tickets. We had been warned not to buy with the touts, but to use the proper ticket offices. This is in itself is quite difficult, because the girl in the ticket office says it’s too late because the ferry is about to sail, but the tout standing next to her window can easily sell us a ticket for the same boat, granted they only had first class left. Why can’t she sell us one if he can??? I think she is in with the touts, because then they can overcharge us by giving us the chance to get the boat, while she just sits there doing nothing, except shaking her head when we try to make contact with her. We paid the touts and got on board.

First class was okay with TV and air conditioning that made you think you had suddenly walked into the Antarctic. We moved further back in the cabin where it was not so cold. On the way over which takes 2 hours, it got very black and started to rain pretty hard. Got a taxi when we got off and he drove us the odd 400 meters to the hotel. He walked us up to the hotel with his umbrella. We were pretty wet when we got there, even though it was no more than a 100 meters.

The hotel was great and we got a room on the first floor with a terrace overlooking the street and all the life there was down there. The hotel was called “Clove Hotel”, named after the spice. On the top floor which was the 5^{th  ,} you could relax and have a drink with a fantastic view over the harbour and a large part of Stonetown, the town where we were staying. The lady who ran the hotel who was Dutch, told us that there was no power and was not quite sure when we would get it back. We had a bit of a sleep (it’s tiring all this holiday stuff) and then set off to discover Stonetown, because now it had stopped raining. We made our way to a restaurant called Archipelago (recommended by Lonely Planet). Food okay, but nothing special. Karen had a bit of a tour around Stonetown after we had eaten – so off we went. The only problem is that we had no map – shouldn’t be a problem you think!!!

Those of you who have never been to Stonetown and that’s probably most of you, it’s no ordinary town. Hundreds of streets make up the town, but most are no wider than 2 meters and with the buildings being 3 storey or more, you quite easily lose direction and go round not really knowing where you are, or even where you have been. The whole situation is made worse because with there being no power – there were no street lights. We enjoyed the close contact with the locals and their shops until we found out we didn’t know how to get back to the hotel. Eventually with some help from the locals we arrived back at the Clove – good night! 

09 -10.dec.  (see last two linies)

Life at Sunrise Beach Resort just goes on. If you imagine deep blue seas, long white sandy beaches laced with palm trees, waiters running up and down looking after your needs, with a temperature on average of 33 degrees C, with the water nearly as warm – then that’s this place. Not too much that is reminiscent of Africa here, but then a herd of cows comes along the beach, or one of the locals takes a ride down the beach on his horse and you get the feeling it’s not a tropical island or an episode of Robinson.

Talked to a lot of fellow travelers and Europeans living down here. This way you keep getting valuable updates on the countries we are on our way to. Met Tony Farmer and his wife Muenni. Tony spends most of his time down here with his business and they were staying at Sunrise in the houses you can rent. Tony gave us a lot of local information and put us in touch with someone who maybe could help repair our GPS.

A national holiday today, so there were a lot of people at the beach today. Because the resort lies so close to Dar, it only takes half an hour from the city to reach us. Thursday we just had a lazy beach day – AGAIN!!!

09 -10.dec.
Life at Sunrise Beach Resort just goes on. If you imagine deep blue seas, long white sandy beaches laced with palm trees, waiters running up and down looking after your needs, with a temperature on average of 33 degrees C, with the water nearly as warm – then that’s this place. Not too much reminiscent of Africa here, but then a herd of cows comes along the beach, or one of the locals takes a ride down the beach on his horse and you get the feeling it’s not a tropical island or an episode of Robinson.
Talked to a lot of fellow travelers and Europeans living down here. This way you keep getting valuable updates on the countries we are on our way to.

08.12 continued
Lots of people waiting to be attended in the Zain office. I thought we had a really long wait, but all of a sudden after being told to take a seat, a young guy was on our case. Didn’t take too long and we had our modem installed, ready to use. It will be a lot easier for us when there are no internet cafes available. Mainly it is so we can keep abreast of our mails.
Visited a supermarket, not on the scale of back home, but they had a bit. They don’t seem to eat “musli” down here in Tanzania, so Karen is having to make do with cornflakes. Bruno and Ursula went back to camp but we went for a walk through Dar Es Salam. Tried to find someone who could help with the GPS problem, but nothing to be found in Dar. An Indian shop where they sold computers and electronic equipment said: if we left it a few days, he might be able to do something with it. We wouldn’t take the chance.
You have to take a ferry across the Kurusini Creek. It only takes five minutes to cross and costs 100 shillings, (4 cent) but it’s an experience in itself. People just surge forward to get on board when they open the gates and you risk life and limb avoiding the cars while walking on board. We didn’t get run down by anything though. The ferry experience in Dar is a real African event. There are two ferries running during the rush hour periods, one half the size of the other. If you are on the smallest of the two you really get close to your fellow passengers. There is talk of building a bridge, which in a way is the perfect solution to the problem of getting across the expanse of water. The only problem is that the culture surrounding the waterfront, which has gone on for centuries, would simply disappear completely. Despite the protests, most think the bridge will arrive eventually.
 

from 3. to 10. of December 2009

09 -10.dec.

Life at Sunrise Beach Resort just goes on. If you imagine deep blue seas, long white sandy beaches laced with palm trees, waiters running up and down looking after your needs, with a temperature on average of 33 degrees C, with the water nearly as warm – then that’s this place. Not too much that is reminiscent of Africa here, but then a herd of cows comes along the beach, or one of the locals takes a ride down the beach on his horse and you get the feeling it’s not a tropical island or an episode of Robinson.

Talked to a lot of fellow travelers and Europeans living down here. This way you keep getting valuable updates on the countries we are on our way to. Met Tony Farmer and his wife Muenni. Tony spends most of his time down here with his business and they were staying at Sunrise in the houses you can rent. Tony gave us a lot of local information and put us in touch with someone who maybe could help repair our GPS.

A national holiday today, so there were a lot of people at the beach today. Because the resort lies so close to Dar, it only takes half an hour from the city to reach us. Thursday we just had a lazy beach day – AGAIN!!!

08.12

Today we had decided to take a trip in Dar es Salaam. One thing with Dar is that you don’t drive in there – not if you value your vehicle. They drive like madmen and parking, even if you can find a spot, is a risky affair. We took a Taxi down to the ferry over to the city, then another one into the centre. We travelled in with Ursula and Bruno, who also had business in there. We all went into the local “Zair” centre, which is one of the mobile telephone companies. Bruno would help with the modem for the computer, because he has been through the process before.

07.12

Had a great night’s sleep with the breakers on the beach sending us off. This beach is fantastic. No people her today (Monday) after the weekend with lots of people from nearby Dar es Salaam. The water of the Indian Ocean is so warm and inviting and a nice clean long beach more or less deserted, so we were going nowhere today. Talked to a guy called Tony Farmer who would try to help us with organizing our computer with a modem so we can use a telephone signal to get on the net and maybe also get our GPS repaired.

Walked up the beach and had dinner at the next lodge. With the weather being so warm, everything takes place on the beach more or less, so dinner listening to the sound of the waves was just what the doctor ordered.

06.12.

On the road early on our way to Sunrise beach, just south of Dar es Salam. We had 90 kms off road before we hit the tar. It took 3 hours to reach the tar road. Found the camp without bother and who were there when we arrived - Ursula and Bruno. This is the third time we have met them – great. The beach is fantastic with then locals from Dar enjoying a weekend break. The campsite is just back from the beach, so we have our own area where we can cook, or just relax.

Up to now we have been a bit disappointed with Tanzania. The country, as regards the game parks, is becoming a money machine, with all prices in American dollars, not even their own currency – the shilling. The other problem is the facilities, which are just not up to the prices they are asking. I feel we are being taken advantage of and it could be a problem for Tanzania in the future if they persist with their gold digging.

Walked up the village to get an idea if we could buy anything. Funnily enough we could buy tonic water, but no bread. Never mind we have some pasta we can cook for the evening meal. The music from the nearby lodge stopped at 10.00pm. I say this because I think you could hear the music a couple of kms up and down the beach. 

05.12.

Not far from the park gate we arrived at a river campsite owned by a young couple. Her we spent two days. We could see the river, which was full of hippos and you could hear them all the time. 10 dollars per person plus 15 dollars for meals per day. We thought it was worth it. The bar overlooked the river and they mixed good gin and tonics – what more can you ask. Next day Karen did some washing – there was lots of it and I cleaned the car inside. It soon gets full of dust. Also lifted the towing bar a bit and removed the trailer plug which was getting pretty beat up on the roads we are driving on at the moment.

Went on a boat trip at 4.0pm where we sailed up and down the river past lots of hippos and saw lots of rare birds. We saw weaver birds up close building their nest. They actually fly half upside down and hold on a bit to build the bottom of their nest, which just hangs vertically down from a chosen reed. After about two hours we were deposited on a sandbank in the middle of the river, but only after we had chased three hippos back into the water so we could be there. Here we saw the sunset – and what a sunset. Back home after two and a half hours to a moonlight dinner.

04.12.

No excitement outside our tent during the night. Packed everything and on the road out of the park. Those of you who have been in a good maize know the feeling of not being able to find out where you are. Roads divided all the time and one way didn’t look more used than the other. You simply had to just guess which way to go. We guessed the wrong way all the time. In the end we were getting a bit desperate, because even our driving using the sun wasn’t getting us anywhere. The biggest problem we had was our GPS, which just stopped working. This had been a great help in getting us on the right road, especially in parks, but now it was useless. The unit is only 4 months old and still under guarantee, but in the middle of Tanzania I don’t think we are going to get much help from Garmin!!!

We were driving round on some of the most impossible roads we have driven on when we eventually stumbled upon a camp. A guy came hurrying out and told us to move our car so they could get out – no good morning or anything – just move. Eventually he did give us some directions which turned out to be hopeless. He was English and at that point I was embarrassed to be English. We met a guide some time later and had much better luck with his help. Got out of the park and Karen told them at the gate just what she thought of their set up – in a polite way of course – I couldn’t have done it.  

03.12.

The road to Selous is really bad and progress was slow. Yes a 4x4 is really needed in Tanzania, because tar roads are really at a premium. Arrived at the park headquarters after having to drive past the main gate because the road was closed. They didn’t know this when we asked why it was closed. This should have given us a premonition of what was to come. Firstly we had to pay 50 American dollars per person to get in, entry fee each of 15 dollars, the car 50 dollars, camping 30 dollars per person – and all this for one day!

They had no maps of the park, but Karen persuaded him to part with one they had hanging on the wall. We found out later that the guy was an office clerk and hadn’t given us some vital information before we drove into the park – namely that we needed to have a guide with us, because there are more or less no signs in the park and roads that are worse than a maize. We went after the riverside camping site - a lot easier said than done. We saw quite a few animals, but the camping site proved very elusive and when we eventually stumbled on it, we found a rundown site with no water, a toilet that was too disgusting to even open the door – so we didn’t. The rubbish bins were lying on their sides with their contents lying everywhere. The two shelters that had been built were falling down. We didn’t really want to stay there – but we were in the middle of nowhere and couldn’t get to the next place before it went dark.

Built a big fire, because there was evidence of elephant, hippo and croc in the camp. The lake was only a few meters away from the camp, but even so we drove down to river side to investigate the inmates. There were at least 50 hippos in the water and the banks were filled with Nile crocodiles who promptly ran for the water as we came driving towards them. We stayed for 30 minutes and then we left – don’t want to get a hippo mad by outstaying our welcome. This is because many hippos come out of the water to eat after dark.

02.12.2009

I didn’t finish the story of the Toyota service. The guy proved to be very competent in what he did. The garage is owned by an Indian who is due to take part in a contest in Japan, where he represents Tanzania to be the best international mechanic outside Japan. Maybe next time we come past he has a

1. to 2. of December

02.12

Called in at the local Toyota dealer so we can get an oil and filter change before driving further. Obviously not your Europe Toyota standard, but they seem to know what they are doing.

 01.12.2009

Well the first of December has arrived and it’s hard to believe it’s winter back home and people are preparing for Christmas. Here we are having difficulty remembering which day of the week it is. One day just seems to melt into the next. When you read this, don’t take it as a negative situation, but the fact that we just go with what we want to do and when we want to do it, for us is fantastic and time or the day just doesn’t have any real meaning. At the moment we don’t know where we will be for Christmas and have no plans to be in any particular place – it will just happen. We left Riverside Camp Iringa and are now on our way towards Selous Game Park, some 500 kms south east. We drove as far as Morongoro town some 300 kms away. On the way the main road drove through a game park and we saw elephants, giraffe and impala at the side of the road – this is Africa!

Had lunch at a lodge in the park on the way. They let you go into the official part of the park where the lodge is to have lunch, without paying the park fees of 20 dollars per person. Normally we have heard they give you one hour, but Karen M managed two hours – don’t know how she does it!!!

Did some shopping in Morongoro and filled up with diesel.

Found a hotel Kola Hill Hotel where we could camp. No proper toilets, so we can use one of the huts to shower and use the toilet. It will do us before we head for the park tomorrow.  

22. to 27. of November 2009

27.11

Another morning sitting at the camp just watching the animals around us. As I am writing this at 11.50 am, six elephants are walking past us. We had an exciting night, being woken by an elephant more or less nudging the car to get past. A hippo also walked right through the camp to get to a mud hole on the other side of the camp. You definitely do not want to get in its way. We are so lucky at the moment, we don’t have to go to the game, it comes to us! Well this is one of the main reasons why we came down here.

Drove out to see how the buffalo carcass was doing. Nothing left but the head and the rib bones, even the vultures were finished. Yes, mother nature certainly cleans up after herself. Carried on over to Sue and Graham at the lodge, but they had checked out during the morning. We should have been out there yesterday, but didn’t realize that it was 18kms from our camp and we couldn’t manage it without having to drive in the dark – something you don’t do in the parks. Shame we missed them, but the week we have been together has been great – thanks to you both.

Another night at camp with our trusty bonfire. It will be hard to leave this place, but we have to tomorrow.

26.11

Stayed in camp to enjoy camping on the savanna. Animals are all around us and we can hear the hippos who are just 200 meters away. What more can you ask of Africa right at this moment? Sue and Graham suddenly turned up on a game drive and wanted to see where we were. They are staying at the lodge further down the river. We will drive up there later today for a cold beer which graham has promised to serve.

Out on a game drive in our own vehicle again and saw lots of game. Went to see how the lions were getting on with the buffalo carcass. They were still there, keeping the vultures at bay. Prepared the evening meal over the fire using our Potje (wrought iron pot). A sort of an Irish stew with lots of vegetables, some of which hadn’t seen before. Tasted fantastic though. The evenings at this camp are out of this world. The moon has been out every night and you can see more or less the whole savanna from where we are. Sometimes you can see shapes moving about at a distance.

10.35 pm and Karen had just fallen asleep. I was reading and just outside the tent I sensed movement. Peeping through the tent’s mosquito net I could see a large dark shape right at the side of the tent – un-mistakenly an elephant. Woke Karen, she was awake in half a second flat. Just whisper elephant to her and even the deepest sleep can’t keep her from waking up at once. Eventually it disappeared down into the river and wandered down stream. Ya – exciting things happening.

25.11

Bought some fresh meat from the owner of the site and after a walk around the area we were on the road to Ruaha National Park. Off road driving all the way and arrived after an interesting drive through villages and we saw how green and lush Tanzania is compared to Malawi. Got a shock at the gate to the park, because the fees for a couple of days camping far exceeded what we had expected to pay. It costs 120 American dollars per day. This is Africa and we don’t mind helping where we can, but these charges are only going to put “would be” tourists off! We actually booked into something called a “bandas”, which turned out to be a tin hut with a straw roof with 2 beds and a mosquito net and 40 degrees inside. They were situated nicely, but I would never be able to sleep in an oven. Went down to the campsite which was a plot of ground on the river bank. Set up camp without folding the tent out, because we needed the car. Saw quite a lot of animals – antelope, giraffe, warthogs, elephant, zebra and came across a kill. Lions had killed a buffalo right at the side of the road. One large male was protecting the carcass, while three other lions rested under a baobab tree 200 meters away. They had barely begun to eat the buffalo. They had started on its belly and now they were just resting. A good start to our stay here. Even though we had a camp fire to keep predators away, a serval came crawling under the car, but it soon disappeared again. It is just an overgrown cat – but definitely wild!!!

24.11

On the road again with our destination being Kisalonza camp half way to Ruaha National Park, where we hope to spend some days seeing game, but too far to drive in one day. The camp was a bit disappointing with no lights or electricity. Okay if we were in the middle of the bush where you expect it, but it was expensive for just a patch of ground. Chatted to two Germans who have been on the road for four years just driving around in Africa and they still didn’t know when they would be going home again. Graham and Sue still with us and they decided to go to the restaurant and eat. We preferred our “camping food” . Overlanders can use a camp on the other side, which is a good idea. In keeping them away from the private campers you get the best of both worlds. I can remember years ago when we were with a safari outfit and without realizing it you take over the whole campsite.

23.11

Decided to stay an extra day. We drove into Mbeya and had a walk around. Looked at an electric kettle that Karen wanted, but they wanted too much for it. Bought a few things. Here though you have to go into several shops to get what you want (if you can get it!). Found the local internet café and downloaded our mail. Filled up with diesel – no problem here!!! On our way back to the camp at Utigula Lodge it started to rain cats and dogs. We tried to drive down to see the local coffee plantation, but gave up because of the weather.

Back at the camp, Graham and Sue had arrived back from their trip into town and were in an empty room trying to keep dry. It cleared up after a while so we were  now ok to go outside again. The room  was going to be used to house people coming later and the manager was a bit annoyed that we had used the empty room. We didn’t really care, because they were asking full price for the camping site, even though there was no kitchen or washing facilities for pots and even more, no place to go if it rained as most sites have.

22.11

Today we are just going to relax on our first full day in Tanzania. The lodge has a fantastic swimming pool and the waiters fall over themselves to bring you drinks etc. As in the countries we have been through already, the locals are friendly and helpful when you need it. We didn’t see any bread we could buy at the side of the road, or a local baker where we could buy some of the night’s production. Maybe as in Mozambique and Malawi we can get it as we drive further up.

Karen had the honour of being chef tonight, where she will give Graham and Sue the chance to try some “good old Danish cooking”. Everyone enjoyed the food after the usual G& T.

The camping site as said earlier is not really a camping site but a helicopter landing patch, so as we had parked where we could connect our electricity points through an empty room, we had now to move, because the room was going to be used for guests who would arrive later.

19. to 21. of November

21.11

An early start today, together with Graham and Sue, because we are heading for the border. Really sorry to leave the site, but all good things come to an end. Good road up to the border and we managed to get through to Tanzania without too much bother. As soon as we crossed the border we could see a difference in the landscape. Here it seemed much greener than Malawi. We passed acres and acres of tea plantations on the way to Mbeya, about 125 kms  from the border. Doesn’t seem to be any fuel shortages here, so we can think of other things other than where we can get fuel. The weather a little cooler today, which is great when we are driving. Managed to pick up some supplies on our way through the main part of the town + used our visa cards to withdraw 800,000 shillings, so we had a bit of pocket money!!!

Arrived at camp and were shown the helicopter pad, which they used as a camping site. We moved a bit closer to the ablutions, right next to the tennis courts – nobody using them though. A nice view of the mountains from the camp and with the inviting swimming pool at the centre of the camp, we thought  - okay it will do for a couple  of nights. Met a couple from Kenya who have a stud in Kenya and we invited them to join us in the restaurant for a meal later. Here we all picked their brains a bit about what lay in front of us. They invited us to call in when we were in their territory.  

20.11

Karen M had found out that there was a waterfall nearby, so up at 5.45 am, breakfast and on our way. We went past the owners house on our way to the falls and he showed us his garden which he hoped eventually would cover all the camp’s food need s,  apart from the meat. He had pineapple bushes, coffee plants from which he gets 100 kgs ground coffee a year and he is working on producing even more vegetables. He has re-routed water from the mountain to cover his garden needs, but has to be careful not to overdo it, because the whole garden is on a steep slope and could disappear down the mountain slope into the valley,  a 1000 meters below.

He said we needed a guide to get to the falls – his dog, named Kilimanjaro!!! It got us there okay and it was worth the effort. The dog disappeared though before the home trip. Couldn’t be bothered waiting for us.

19.11

Got up at 7.0 am, a bit late for us! The wind had dropped a bit, but still raining off and on. Got packed and had breakfast and left with Graham and Sue for Lukwe camp site up in the mountains, just before Livingstonia and not too far from the border with Tanzania. Made for Mzuzu the first large town on the road north. Here we could buy supplies and hopefully diesel. Got the supplies and had a cup of coffee at the local coffee shop. The coffee was so strong the spoon stood up in the cup. Karen went down the road to pick up a kettle she found out we couldn’t do without and heard that fuel had come to town. Yippee – we both got filled up with diesel. Arrived at the camp after climbing 500 meters off road to the camp, driving through some spectacular views on the way up.

A primitive camp, but just what the doctor ordered. No water, long drop toilets, and showers where the water was brought up by hand in containers, then heated over a log fire before we used it. We had a braai together with Graham and Sue plus three young backpackers who arrived late in the afternoon. Graham and me being English through and through had decided we wanted apple crumble and custard for dessert. A bit much in the middle of the bush in Africa maybe – but no, Sue just needed flour to do the crumble and bob’s your uncle,  John found some in no time. Crumble was done over the fire in Karen’s “potje”. Graham and me didn’t follow the exact instructions given by Sue for cooking the crumble, but it was still good, especially with the custard I manage to make. A few beers – goodnight!

15. to 18. of November

18.11

Got up after a windy night, which kept most of us awake. Had breakfast amongst swarms of small flies which the wind brought in. Got away from them down on the beach, so we finished our breakfast down there.

Pete and Sue left at 10.0 am. They are almost at the end of their trip for the time being, so they wanted to get down to friends in the Monkey Bay area before it got too late. Weather today still blowy and now wet. Had dinner up at the restaurant with Graham and Sue, because it was too wet and windy to eat outside.

Brett told us that the fuel situation is so critical now, that supplies to shops etc are starting to be affected, so we shouldn’t expect to get fuel before we get to Tanzania. Well this is a bit of a blow, because we had intended visiting two game parks on the way out of Malawi. After working out how much fuel we have and would need to do the parks, we made the decision to head north, with a stopover in Livingstonia, just before the border.

Africa at its best is very unpredictable and although the fuel  situation surprises us, you just have to make plans to go around the problem.  Malawi is experiencing foreign currency problems at the moment and diesel cannot be bought for “kwacha”, so there is only a small amount coming through. When someone sees a tanker, there is a whole line of vehicles who just follow it to its destination to get fuel. So you can imagine the scenes at the pumps when it has discharged its load.

17.11

Another fantastic day started with breakfast overlooking the lake, with the sun warming things up nicely to 30 degrees C at 7.30 am. Another couple arrived at the site, Sue and Graham were their names. Funnily enough they also come from England. They live in London and are on their way up north to join family for a Christmas in Zambia. All six of us got on well together, exchanging information about the fuel crisis, areas visited and to be visited. A lazy day swimming, reading etc. Decided to stay another day.

We decided we would all eat together tonight and ordered food at the restaurant, to be served on the terrace overlooking the lake. We all enjoyed the meal and the company and retired to our tents at 10.0 pm.

16.11

Drove further up the coast towards Nkhata Bay, but stopped in Makuzi Lodge, 36 kms short of Nkhata. We liked the place and decided we would stay for at least two nights. The camping site overlooked the lake and there were plenty of trees for shade. The lake looked very inviting and warm, so in for a swim. The couple who were camped at the side of us were from Liverpool. Pete and Sue have been on the road - on and off for five years, so they know a lot about Africa, so as well as being a nice friendly couple, they also could give us a wealth of information about further north.

Checked with Brett the owner about the diesel situation and he told us that if anything, things were getting worse.

15.11

After eating fish on the beach during the evening and a good night’s sleep, it’s on the road again. Drove further down Monkey Bay, but nothing we could see was worth spending a night there. Got a tip regarding diesel at a filling station further down the road – and bingo we got filled up + jerry cans after Karen had found a bank where she could withdraw some money. As it was the weekend, the banks were closed, but she found a machine where she could use her visa card. I think she had walked 3 kms in 35 C degrees to find it. Not a lot to see. We ended up at the Wheel house Marine, a lodge /campsite for the night. It had a crazy bar on stilts out on the lake. I say crazy, because the stilts didn’t look all that secure and the bar tilted at an angle, but it will be alright until it falls into the lake and joins the sunken boat which is just at the side of it. Well after all we are in Africa, where as I have said before, maintenance of things doesn’t exist at all.

Karen found a lot of the local girls in the camping places toilets, getting themselves ready to go into the bar. They are not supposed to use them, but the camps guards are not really effective in keeping people away, hence we only stayed for one night.

14.11.2009

Karen out of bed today at 4.40 am. Yes to all of you in Denmark - she can do it if she wants to! I waited until 5.30 am before I threw the sheets to one side. I don’t blame Karen getting up so early, because the view over Lake Malawi is awesome (to quote some of our Aussie friends – hi Shaun and co)so early in the morning. The early morning mist while the temperature is a mere 24 degrees, gives the lake an unreal appearance, but as the temperature rises, which it does quite quickly (over 30 degrees before 10.00 am), it disappears. The locals are up and about at 4.30 am, while it’s still cool enough to work.

You have to have a special “hotspot card” to get onto the net here at the camp, but unfortunately they don’t have them here. Karen found out we could get them from the next lodge up the bank of Lake Malawi, so off we went at 7.0 am. You have to walk through the village to get there, which in itself is always an experience. Most of the locals greet you in a polite way, but a lot of the children unfortunately just keep asking for money. Met a couple of Danes at the other lodge with the quaint name of the Fat Monkey. They work down here a couple of times a year photographing fish and registering what’s going on. They work under contract and their stay can vary from a couple of weeks to six months.

12 .to 13. of November 2009

13.11

Up at 6.0 am and the view over Lake Malawi necessitated tea up on the rocks with a book for the next hour or so. What a fantastic start to the day. The locals were out early fishing in their dugouts. We climbed the hill at the side of the campsite just to get a bit of exercise. Got back to the camp after 2 hours at 9.30 am with the temperature already over 30 degrees. Karen decided to let the locals wash some of our clothes. She wasn’t much for giving them another chance after the last time in Lilongwe when it came back nearly as dirty as it was before they washed it.

12.11

Well Thorbjørn, when you read this you will laugh – yes Karen had to organize the back end of the truck again after the departure of Ole and Anette to Denmark. (she loves it really) – NO, NO

On the road again after a trip to the bank to get some money to pay the bill at Nellys. The place had been okay, but three days was a bit too much, especially with the limited menu the kitchen could come up with. It wasn’t safe to walk into town to get something. The level of diesel in the tank didn’t give us the luxury of driving down to town. Great to be able to get on the road again. Our destination was Eagles nest camping site at Monkey Bay. One of the guests at the lodge in Lilongwe had told us to take a route over the mountains, getting us away from the main drag. The mountains combined with the green valleys to provide us with scenery which is on a par with everything we have seen up to now.

Still no real sign that the diesel crisis is over. We tries a couple of filling stations on the way, without luck. We got to the campsite which is situated right down on Lake Malawi. The campsite was extremely small and with there being two couples in tents already, we couldn’t see where we could park. They had to move their vehicle, which they were not too enthusiastic about, but we positioned our vehicle so we didn’t steal their view.

We experienced one of the most beautiful sunsets we have ever seen – and we have seen a few from all corners of the world. It’s a good job the camera was digital and we could keep on firing away. The G & T tasted especially good as the sun illuminated the sky in a blaze of fantastic colours and reflections from Lake Malawi. We just couldn’t get enough of it!!!

7. to 11. of November 2009

11.11.

A day chasing fuel again. This time I  bought some on the black market for a price in access of double the normal price. Rest of the day it was a waiting game of about six hours before I got my hands on more diesel, so we could leave Lilongwe. Visited the local Chinese restaurant, but left again before ordering. We just didn’t like it. Ate at Nellys again.

07.11.-10.11.2009

On the road early from Mulanje. The camp had been okay, but it was also used as a car park for people going down to the river pools, which were nearby. Lots of locals also walked through, on their way to the pools. The only problem was that they quite often just stopped and stared at us. I got a bit annoyed with it, because we had paid to be on a camping sight without all the bother of people ogling at us.

Heard rumours of problems with diesel supplies from a bus load of tourists who came down to the camp.

Our next destination was Liwonde, a National Park with an abundance of animals. The scenery was breathtaking on the way there. A great camping place overlooking the river where there were both crocs and hippos + a fantastic variety of birds. Did a game drive and we saw Elephants and a whole range of Antelope? The camp fire was lit for us and we again used our cooking pot to cook the food in. We, together with Ole and Anette, had conjured up a type of Irish Stew – tasted good. The Elephants paraded past our camp while we were cooking the food!

Leisurely day next day with an evening drive, where unfortunately we didn’t see so many animals. We were also a bit worried about the diesel situation, so we didn’t drive too far. Headed for Lelongwe the next day and all the filling stations were dry for diesel along the route. Emptied the Gerry cans into the tank so we could make sure we could reach our destination.

Checked into Nellys Guest House where we received the usual friendly African greeting. I headed off early next day to try and get hold of some diesel. Ole and Anette had to get a taxi to the Airport, because we didn’t have enough fuel to get out to the airport and back again. Spent the whole day searching out diesel – to no avail - unfortunately. 

30.10-6.11

Friday

An early starts because we will see if we can get to Gorongosa today. A drive of some 485 km, normally a drive which wouldn’t present problems in Europe, you could easily manage it in one day. Down here you have no idea what the condition of the road is in before you hit it! The drive up was a mixture of the best and the worst, with the worst parts being definite 4x4 territories. At its worse you are moving at about at an average of 10 – 15 km per hour. We managed to reach the gate at 17.30, half an hour before it shuts.

We stayed in Gorongosa for three nights. The park boasts most of the animals you would expect to see in Africa, the only problem being that there isn’t that many of them.

The park if you go back just 40 years was the park in Africa where you found the biggest selection of animals and it boomed with tourists – then war came. Not with another country, but an internal struggle that left a million people dead and if that itself wasn’t bad enough, more or less all the animals in the park were slaughtered or just disappeared. The park was now just a deserted battle field.

The situation today is that a group of people are working hard to return the park to its former glory. An American millionaire has promised to cover the cost of running the park for the next twenty years. It’s an ambitious project, which is going to be difficult to realize. We saw all different types of antilope, including some we have never seen before, lions and thousand of wild boar and monkeys, but no zebra or elephants, with no real access to hippos and crocs.

The park itself is nice to drive round in, but sadly there isn’t enough in the way of animals to entice me back again. I hope they succeed in there efforts.

1/11/2009

Sunday

Left the park and made for a town called Chimoio on the EN1, where we could shop. Found quite a big shopping center there. Ole and I had to find a toilet, which we were told was at the back of the building. After walking through the supermarkets area, we asked a guard where the toilets were and he pointed to a shack being held up by a WC sign. After walking through a stinking refuge area, I was beginning to think I could wait a bit, but we soldered on. Then a guy came running with two fingers in the air, which I think meant he wanted money. We took a deep breath, went in did our thing and out again. The quickest wee I have ever had – and no the guy did not get paid, he should have paid us.

We headed for Tete 540 km away, where we hoped to camp for the night, before going out to Tiger Lodge out by Cahora Bassa Dam the next day. We would have like to get to the Lodge in one day, but it was too far, especially when you driving 120 km off road, which whether you like it or not, slows you down considerably. In Tete it was dark when we arrived, which wasn’t so good. Lots of the locals drive without lights, whether they are in a car, on a bike, or just walking in the middle of the road. Most of the trucks have had their dipped lights lifted so they can see more, which makes driving a nightmare for us coming in the opposite direction.

We had to get to the opposite side of the town across the river, which is no mean feat when the only bridge across is blocked with road works and trucks and cars jostling with each other to come over. We got over after 30 minutes. After a trip out to airport, and parts of the town I can’t remember we hailed a taxi bus for help. One of the passengers got out to help us find a place to stay. Eventually found Baobab Lodge where we got two rooms. Ole and I drove our helper home. Really nice of him to help us. No water in the rooms. There was a drum of water in the bathroom which you poured down the toilet or in the sink, depending on what you were using it for. We got an evening meal, even though it was 20.30.

Next day our breakfast at 7.30am was chips, fried egg and salad. We were all hungry, so we ate it, but it’s not what we would call a normal breakfast.

The temperature is still on the increase. During the middle of the day we are up to 36 degrees C, with it dropping to 24 degrees during the night.

Tuesday

On the road to Tiger Lodge. Off road most of the way through small villages. You really get to see how the locals live. Again we drove through forests of Baobabs and on arrival at the lodge we were offered chalets for the same price as camping – right under a big Baobab tree. We immediately booked for two nights!!!

Got one of the locals to wash the vehicle, because it was now in a pretty terrible state after all the mud and dust we have been through the last couple of weeks.

As I write this at 17.00 hours, with a view over the lake, the temperature is 32 degrees C  - It must soon be gin and tonic time! – There was no gin!!!

Wednesday – 4.11.2009

Tiger Lodge is a paradise, like so many of the other places we have visited! Cahora Bassa Dam which has contributed to large expanse of water which now fills the valley and is now a part of the Zambezi, is close by, so we had to visit it. It was a drive from the lodge of 10 minutes. We couldn’t get into the dam wall itself, but the security guards were kind enough to let us view it from their vantage point on the point. We had arranged a sundown cruise on a pontoon, leaving at 4.0pm, which would also include our evening meal.

Got some washing done. It’s nearly dry before you have finished washing it. Had a walk down to lake to see the local boat builders in action and visited a local fishing farm where they worked with bream. Cleaned the inside off the vehicle, to match the now clean outside.

Got down to the pontoon at 4.0pm, but eventually left at 4.30pm. They nearly forgot the food. We had just started to negotiate our way out of the harbour, so we had to go in again. Then the boatman started to impersonate someone who had never been at the helm of a boat before. The boat was bumping into everything on its way out and people were running around on the quayside moving things out of his way. There were only us four onboard and we were in doubt as to whether we wanted to continue if the whole trip was going to be a battle to survive. We get away from the harbor and I helped get the outboard running properly and we settled down to what turned out to be a fantastic experience for us all. We had fish for our evening meal, bream as we had seen at the fish farm earlier in the day. We arrived back at 7.30pm, with temperature on the lake about 32 degrees C, but the breeze and low humidity level had made it perfect. Out on the river you are completely alone with the sunset and mother nature. A special experience we will never forget. Even at the end we had a bit of excitement, with all the lights going out in the harbor, just as we sailed in. We only hit one underwater rock as we tried to ease our way in, then the lights came on during the last few yards of our docking. We got safely ashore.

Had a chat with some South Africans in the bar and found out what it was like to cross into Malawi.

Thursday

Left Tiger Lodge and headed for the border to Malawi. Got through without much trouble. Headed for the rest camp at Mulanje. Called in at Blantyre for a cup of coffee and arrived at the rest camp at 7.0pm.

Friday

Hired a guide to take us up the falls at 7.15 am. A walk of about an hour to get there. The waterfall was magnificent, with pools where you could bathe if you wanted. The plants and flowers on the way up and down was a paradise waiting to be explored. The rest of the day we rested – well after all, it is a rest camp!!!      

25.10-29.10.2009

Sunday

Awoken by the sound of quad bikes roaring past the tent at 5.30am. Decided to get up at 6.00 am and get on with the day’s activities. Decided to drive to the airport in Maputo as soon as we were ready. The ferry was a bit of a problem because of the low tide. We got on okay, but a truck was the last vehicle on and when they attempted to drive off at the other side, it got stuck high and dry, with both back wheels dangling in the air. The back end of the truck was too low and long to clear the steep ramp. We could just wait until they had arranged ramps and a vehicle to tow it off the ferry. This took about 45 minutes. Africa at its best. Got to the airport in 34 degrees C and managed to get the vehicle parked. Ole and Anette came through after a delay of 45 minutes going through all the formalities, like visa and customs. Great to see them again.

Ole and Anette had no idea of where we were headed (back to camp). Arrived back after a good insight into life on the outskirts of Maputo. Crowded markets, smokey vehicles, people selling and a general atmosphere of poverty amongst the people. The trip over on the ferry didn’t provide any problems – well not really. There was quite a queue waiting to cross, about 20 vehicles and we duly parked in line. One of the guys who works the ferry access and had taken a shine to us the day before said we could drive through and use the café to get a drink and he could look after the vehicle in the process. He had noted which vehicle we were parked after, so he could make sure we caught the ferry when it was our turn. Found a nice table and sat down with a round of cold drinks. After about 10 minutes a very irritated local told us to move because it was his table. He had left his drink there, but of course he hadn’t. We didn’t want any bother, so we let the moaner have his table, if it meant so much to him.

Now it was time to get in the queue said our little friend who had received a bit of cash and a hat for his help. Suddenly a woman who was driving with a local, came up and asked quite curtly if that was my vehicle. Yes I replied. Well you cannot just drive on in front of everyone else. Of course we hadn’t – in fact we caught the ferry after the one we would have caught if we had stayed in the “real” queue. She obviously didn’t believe me when I said we had been here for 45 minutes, so she brought an official over, who after checking that we had a ticket was satisfied that we hadn’t jumped in front of anyone. She went away shaking her head, obviously convinced we had bribed the whole brigade. I was a bit fed up with the whole thing, because if there is one thing I  won’t do is jump queues. Never mind we said to Ole and Anette – welcome to Mozambique.

Enjoyed the rest of the day catching up on news from home, going down to the beach with coffee and Danish Pastries that Ole and Anette had brought from home and later enjoyed a real “camping” evening meal.

Ole and Anette went to bed at 8.0 pm, not surprising after their long trip down here. We followed after a cup coffee and a Danish!!!

Monday

Decided to do the 550 plus Km trip up the coast to Ponta Zavora. Road very changeable on the way. Good road, not so good with potholes, then sand with a 2 meter strip of asphalt in the middle. Here you had to fight with the oncoming traffic for the right to stay on the tar. The trucks always won that contest. The road changed to good again for the last leg of trip. Stopped to get some local currency and buy local fruit and vegetables, plus a few trinkets and Karen had to have a coconut. Arrived at the Zavora Lodge camp and decided to stay at the camp with a beach view. We had been informed that it won’t blow so much for the next couple of days.

Decided to eat at the restaurant because they probably had fish, which Karen and myself haven’t been getting too much of lately. Fantastic food, with a drink at the bar first.

Tuesday (happy birthday Inge and Vuije)

Ole and Anette off for a walk down the beach before 6.00 am. Karen and me got things ready for their return, so we could have breakfast at once.

Looking out over the Indian Ocean doesn’t really give one the idea that it’s Africa we are located in, but it’s a fabulous coast line. We all went for a walk down the beach, with Karen taking a dip in the breakers on the way. Nobody on the beach, beautiful sand, 28 degrees C – what more could you ask for. We are going nowhere today. Reading, walking and whatever turns you on is the order of the day today. NO DRIVING!!!

Going to do our own food tonight. Karen’s new pot is going to be inaugurated over the fire. First though, we have to get hold of some wood. Passed loads of locals selling at the road side, but nowhere to put it while driving – the car is pretty full up! Ole and myself went down to the office to see if we could conjure up some wood. Found some boys down the road who had some for sale. 50 Meticais per bundle (10 crowns /50 pence). They couldn’t change a 200 note so we tried the office, they had no change either. Scratched our heads – yeh, what do we do now? The guy from the office would go down and pay them later when he had some change. A lot a trouble for such a small amount, but we won’t pay more than they ask, because it will only make them think that the next tourists are easy targets.

We got our wood. Two little guys ( 10 years old) came with it after about 15 minutes. I could hardly lift one of them. Got a good fire going with our specially delivered wood. Anette was in charge of making the chicken casserole in the pot on the fire. The food was cooking after just four minutes.

Ole, Karen and myself went to the bar for a sundowner while Anette looked after the cooking. Fantastic bar overlooking the beach and the Indian Ocean – made even better with a rum and cola or a gin and tonic. No this is not Africa – is it???

Fantastic food, then we planned what was going to happen tomorrow.

Wednesday – Election-day in Mozambique

On the road at 7.0 am. Our destination today is the Basuruto Archipelago area where we would camp. The road started okay, then the potholes arrived, which made driving very tricky. Some of the holes were 25 cms deep and when you hit one of those at speed - you know about it. We tried to keep our speed as high as possible so we wouldn’t arrive too late, but the road was having none of it.

Drove past lots of palm trees and some fantastic Baubab trees, which we had to take photos of. Attempted to buy some bananas, but the price compared to the other day when we bought some, had hit the sky, so no bananas today.

We met a couple we had heard about. We had been given their website address because they are just completing something similar to our trip and what happens – a chance in a million, we run in to them at a petrol station!!! Great talking to them and we got a lot of updates on some of the countries we are going to. We headed for the Blue Water camping site outside Vilankulos, on their recommendation, as Inhassoro was a bit too far, and Pomene Lodge too close. Bit of a problem to find – lack of signs again. A 4x4 road out to them. Another paradise unfolded before our eyes as we entered the site. We could see why it was called Blue Water by just gazing out over the ocean. Nobody to receive us at the camp, but plenty of offers to take us on a day trip out to one of the islands.

A good walk down the beach to work up an appetite. Temperature just under 30 degrees C, which felt comfortable down on the beach. Grilled a whole pork fillet on the grill and Anette popped some baking potatoes and garlic segments into the glowing embers of the fire. Again we ate like kings. I will really have to start using the skipping rope that Ole and Anette gave me for my birthday!!!

Thursday

Up at 5.30 with the temperature already around 26 degrees C. Again a stroll down the beach, Karen and Anette did some washing. Dries here in no time. Needed to get hold of some water and bread, but nothing doing. Anyway we won’t starve, we have enough supplies of water and food to keep us going.

Nobody feels like cooking tonight, so we will go to the restaurant and have some fish. I think the others quickly agreed it was a good idea, because they would be free from my smokey fire.   (and it was a fantastic meal and night. Going back home via the beach wit the moon skinning, wauww)  

22.10-24.10.2009

Left Satara early to do a game drive out of the park. We have been generally disappointed with the wild life we have seen in Kruger. We have seen many different species, but not in any numbers. We were led to believe there was a greater concentration of wild life in the southern end of the park, but we experienced the opposite. Kruger is certainly a big tourist attraction, but we think we still prefer to see our game in Botswana, Kenya, Namibia etc. Called in at Satara rest camp to get something to eat and got a bit more than the pies we ordered. The restaurant overlooks the savanna and river and along came the elephants to make Karen feel at home – plus hippos and three crocodiles to complete our lunch entertainment. We stayed a bit too long, so now we had to get a move on. Left the park without seeing much.

We ended up at camp site bordering up to Kruger and just a stone’s throw from the border with Mozambique. We rented a chalet with the security guard, because the camp site toilet was locked and he didn’t have a key. We thought camping with no toilet facilities was a bit much, so the chalet was a good alternative. The chalet overlooked the river dividing us from Kruger.

Next day we drove into Komatipoort to buy what we needed and fill up with diesel, plus the two jerry cans we have on the roof. The weather is really hot today. Got back to the camp and relaxed and later went down to the swimming pool – that was good with temperature now reaching 34 degrees C.

Heard the hippos playing around during the evening, but we couldn’t see them because it was dark.

Now it’s Saturday and we are on our way to Mozambique, but before we left the camp, the local “wartehogs” and her kids came to visit. They were only interested in food and when they realized there was nothing for them, they wondered off again, much to Karen’s relieve.

We crossed the border to Mozambique at Lebombo. The whole thing took 2 hours.  We got the help of two willing helpers who would see us through all the hassle of getting visas, insurance, discharging the carnet etc. They were a big help, but after we had negotiated all the pitfalls and were now on our way through, they wanted 200 rand for their trouble. We weren’t of course prepared to pay this and they were none too pleased that there were a couple of tourists who were not just about to pay up. We expected to pay maybe 30 rand. We ended up by paying 40 rand and left them to sulk. If they had said at the outset that it would cost 200rand, then we could have said yes or no – probably no.

Got to our destination after a little detour decided by our GPS, but at least we got to see more than we bargained for. We camped on a little island north east from Maputo. We had to be ferried over to the island with a little ferry that could manage seven vehicles maximum, if a couple of them hung over the edge a bit.

Pitched the tent for Ole and Anette, two of our friends who are joining us tomorrow for two weeks, then a walk down to the beach.

21.10.2009

Crawled out of bed at 5.30 am – YES am, and all this in the name of relaxing.  Hit the game trail at 6.30 am. We didn’t see that much really. There is game up here in the northern end of Kruger, but it’s well spread, out, which makes it difficult to see. Even so we saw elephant, hippo both in and out of the water, lion, hyena, crocodile, giraffe, zebra and all the usual antelope varieties. Camped for the night in Satara. Went to the restaurant to eat and the waterhole that we could see at the side of the restaurant was suddenly occupied by a hoard of buffalo, who eventually gave way for a large bull elephant. Karen was off like a shot with her camera. She got some good “darkness” shots. Wow just sitting here eating - and the animals are coming to us. On our way home at 9.00 pm, the temperature is 31 degrees C– Africa weather is upon us.

20.10.2009

A really good night’s sleep had by all. What a paradise this is, any of the big five could walk in the door at any moment. Another warm night, 22 degrees C - and it’s not summer here yet! Had a walk down to the river to see if there was any animal activity, but not much happening. Said our goodbyes and on the road to Kruger National Park. We had decided to enter the park at the Phataborwa. No particular reason why we picked to use this border, apart from the fact it was easier to get to our next camping sight in Kruger which was to be Tsendso just south of Mopani. A bit apprehensive about Kruger. We have never had it in our plans to visit it, mainly because we would rather be out in the “real” bush. Then why go in??? Everyone we have talked to ( including you at home), have only had positive things to relate to regarding to visits to the park. You cannot really call it a park, because with a length of 350 Kms it is nearly as big as Jutland in Denmark.

We saw elephant, giraffe, buffalo, zebra, many types of antelope on the way to the camp. Nice quiet camp, not many people here at the moment. Got the tent flipped open to dry out from our stay in the rain the other day. Shouldn’t take too long to dry.

The camp site is very quiet and with modern facilities, with the emphasis on water animals.

17 - 19.10.2009

Drove to Sabie where we camped for the night. Fantastic campsite with swimming pool with water heated to 40 degrees C. Kids making a bit of a noise, but an irritable South Africa just in front of us kept giving them agro. He was gust making a fool of himself – the kids were of course black but just laughed at him. There are many white South Africans who are not really happy with the changes down here. I had to hold Karen back because she wanted to go down and give him a piece of her mind – but it wasn’t worth the agro it could end up giving us.

The waterfalls near the camp were duly visited – need I say they were fantastic.

The next day we visited Bridal Vell Falls, Lone Creek Falls, Horse Falls, Mac Mac Falls and Berlin Falls, Karen couldn’t believe what she was seeing. It has to be said that she has been known to like the odd waterfall. Ha ha.  I didn’t feel too good today so we decided to find a lodge to stay at. The choice fell on Graskop Panorama Rest Camp. The weather closed in and we didn’t see much for the rest of the day.

Feeling better the next day, so we visited amongst other things some fantastic “pot holes” where you could really see the power water has to transform rock  formations.

We had decided to follow up on Toby’s recommendation regarding a place to stay at Kruger, stay with Olga at Mfubu Lodge which was fantastic. We had dinner with Olga at “our” house. Once she used for the family, but quick made ready for us, as we hadn’t booked, and all was full. We had a lovely night with her and a long sleep in. Went down to the river and wventually drove off.

16.10.2009
Yes today we managed to m tear ourselves away. Said our goodbyes to Sue and Matt and on the road up to Pigs Peak. The main thing happening today was a visit to Phophonyane Falls just north of Pigs Peak. It was worth it. The temperature the last few days is slowly creeping up. 31 degrees in the shade was warm. I immediately removed my shoes and stuck my feet in the ice cold water.
Bought a few things in Pigs Peak and then on to the camp site at Maguba Dam. Decided to dine out tonight and while we were eating out on the terrace overlooking the dam it suddenly developed into a full blooded storm, with all our things starting to blow off the table. All of a sudden we were finished. Raced back to the camping site because we had left the tent open because of the heat. We had a hard job getting to the vehicle, because a full blooded sand storm had developed. No damage, we sat more or less in the foya of a building we had camped up to. Here we were free from the storm and I was able to write this.

15.10.2009 (happy Birthday Kevin – 50 Years!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hope you have a lovely day in NZ)
Had breakfast and got the tent folded away, but nothing happened, we stayed an extra day and relaxed with Sue and Matt. Tried the tarpaulin on the back of the vehicle. We bought this to give us some shelter. We didn’t quite find out which was the best way to assemble it. It’s something we will have to work on.

14.10.2009
Did a morning game drive to see if we could see a bit more wild life, not much, but when we got back to camp before shooting off, we saw 6 rhino at the water hole. Now on our way to Hlane reserve. The countryside in Swaziland is very green and furtile, not like the more dry one we experienced in Lesotho. Another thing we noticed is that a lot of people in Africa (Lesotho and Swaziland) are better off than when we were down here in 1985. This is not to say that everyone has moved up the existence scale, but you see lots of new cars and taxis and houses of brick are shooting up everywhere – and not your single room jobs either, but big houses with several rooms. Lots more earth has been cultivated than we have ever seen before, so yes, generally, we think people are benefiting. We saw so many children on their way to school and schools there were lots of them.
Here in Swaziland the Jackorandas are in bloom and really give a lot of colour to the already furtile earth. Shame they only last a few days. Also Swaziland doesn’t have the beggars like Lesotho, the children really wave and smile and do not ask for anything. Had our Lunch in King Sobhuza’s Memorial Park in Manzini. We had bought some “papa” and chicken in gravy – tasted great.
Drove the tea route, named after a failed attempt to grow tea on the mountain sides. Again the view from the top was fantastic – we didn’t want to leave.
Arrived at Milwane camp site and found a good spot and relaxed. Here again the local wild life just wondered through the camp on the look out for the odd morsel. Met Sue and Matt who were from England and more or less doing what we are doing. We made friends at once. They had sold everything and bought a 4x4 and were going to keep going as long as the money and the enthusiasm. We had some goode long chats.

13.10.2009
Went for a walk “climb” up the side of the gorge to investigate a waterfall Karen had heard rumours of. We found it - and there was a little water there, but waterfall??? We could see the fantastic back drop of hills and mountains, not quite Lesotho, but a bit more than okay.
Drove north east in the direction of Sidvokodvo and then in a more easterly direction towards Mpaka and then on to Hlane nature reserve where we could camp. It was also an animal reserve so we relaxed a bit then went out on game drive. We saw rhino, giraffe, various antelopes and lots more – but no elephant. We some local dancers perform some of their songs and ritual dances. There was an ostrich wandering about the camp all the time. I had had to be careful I didn't pee on him when duty called in the middle of the night. The elephants paid the water hole a visit not long after the dancing, but with all the torches and flashlights continually annoying them, they moved on.

12.10.2009
Folded a wet tent together and after breakfast went down to the lions to say hello – not really interested in us. Two young lions arranged some entertainment at the side of our car, one of them growled at us continually, so we moved on.
Now we were on the road to Swaziland. After a little incorrect detour we crossed the border at Mahamba and were met by friendly people at the border crossing. We stayed the night at Mahamba Gorge, a community run project with self catering rondavels and a camp site – of course we went for the camp site. The toilets were out of order we were allowed to use one of the rondavels for toiletries. We were the only people there tonight. The site was set in the gorge as its name implies and was fantastic.

11.10.2009
Today we had decided to go on the Khatsi Dam tour starting at 9.00 am. The weather wasn’t so good, so it was raincoats at the ready. The tour started with an explanation of why and how the main dam was built. Afterwards we went on a trip to the top and bottom of the dam and the inside to get some facts on construction and maintenance. We saw the main control room and heard how everything was controlled from here and even about the tunnels connecting the various reservoirs, so they could always control the levels. The whole thing was fascinating, even for those who are not so technically minded.
We decided to head for Swaziland back through Bethlehem, so we dropped our original plan of leaving via Sani Pass. We have seen it before and we didn’t think it could better what we had already seen. The trip from the dam back to Leribe was really terrible. The weather really closed in on the high stretches, leaving you only three meters visibility in front of you. We were glad to see Leribe when we eventually arrived. And go via Sani Pass in that weather was not safe.
Crossed the border back to South Africa without problems and motored away towards our destination. Somehow we missed our turn and instead of following the border with Lesotho we headed off up north. We have been using our GPS most of the time, but it let us down here. Camped at the Lion’s Den in Vrede. Yes there were “real” lions, but there was an electrical fence keeping us from being on their menu. We experienced a real storm during the night, but the tent held up – yeh! So did we.
 

LESOTHO 5.10-11.10

10.10.2009

Early start again, got the vehicle packed and left for Katse dam. It took 4½ hours to get there. On the way we had to use four wheel drive and when trying to engage it the lever was just flopping around in my hand. Karen and me just looked at each other. Had it been too good to be true getting the vehicle back the same day. Would we have to go all the way back to Bethlehem to get them to put it right, or what!!! Carried on up to a Lodge at the dam. They had a room, which we took. Had some lunch, then I went down to see if I could do anything with vehicle, because going back to Bethlehem was definitely not what we had in mind.

Luckily I managed to fix the gearbox, so we don’t  have to go back to the garage. Went for a walk to soak up the fantastic scenery the dam had produced. I fried some chicken for tea and filled the room with a nice frying smell. We had the doors open for ½ an hour.  

09.10.2009

Up early, had a shower and drove the vehicle to the Toyota main dealer. They were still not happy about doing it under warranty. They do not want to work on imported products. In a way I can understand them, because it can give problems getting hold of the spare parts, but we were stuck with a vehicle with a faulty clutch, so they had to help us out. We can’t send it back to England to be done – the thought sent a chill through me! The agreed to do it.

We spent the day walking around in Bethlehem – not much in the way of shops though. Had lunch at a pub. I went for liver and mash and Karen settled for a “greek salat”

Went to pick the vehicle up at 4.0 pm. They weren’t finished with it, but an hour later they were. I had asked them to heighten the towing bracket, but they couldn’t manage it. Anyway we were relieved that they had done the clutch.

08.10.2009

Left TY early (thanks to Jens and Mamakwatchi for a memorable stay) and drove towards Hololo, where we used to work. Nice to see the place again. Not much going on. The government have taken over the place and filled the workshop with tractors and the spare parts dept was filled with you guessed it – SPARE PARTS! At least that’s what the place was built for, but the rest of the project was not being used at all. Empty buildings seem to be the result of too many Danish projects! Headed for Bethlehem via Golden Gate. The scenery was breathtaking and we saw some Zebra and roaming about the countryside. Called over to Toyota to let them see the vehicle and check on parts.

Found a place to stay in Bethlehem (Madeleine’s Place, self catering) very close to the garage . We will probably be here two nights. The vehicle has to be at the garage at 8.0 am in the morning.

07.10.2009

Drove to a rehabilitation project where we had learned that Me Koali was working. Me Koali was the the person in charge at Thaba Khupa while we were there in 1985. Really great to see her and she related to us the demise of the project. They had apparently not seen her fit to be in charge any longer because she was a woman. They succeeded in getting her sacked and then the project went downhill fast. She has good job now thank god and is maybe going to retire next year and go back to her village where her husband is chief.

Next we headed to TY (a town just outside Maseru) where would see if we could find Jens and Mamakwatchi. We were stopped by a police road block where they wanted to know why we didn’t have a vehicle roadworthy disc in the window as all Lesotho vehicles have. We tried to explain that a vehicle from another country passing through Lesotho doesn’t need one, but he said we were to be arrested!!! We would appear in front of a magistrate in the morning. I just looked at him and said you must be joking, we have done nothing wrong. He said we must have a roadworthy disc and that’s that. He walked away and left us both wandering what was going to happen. Shortly after another officer came up and asked a lot of questions and said we could make it easy on ourselves if we talked to the other guy again to find out what we need to do to avoid further inconvenience to ourselves. We refused and after a while they told us to drive on.

After initial directions we closed in on Jens and Mamakwatchi. Eventually we found them when Karen went into an internet café to ask if they knew them, and it turned out that they owned the place – the internet café I mean, not TY . They have built a nice empire down here in Lesotho, with a guest room and swimming pool and a fantastic house for themselves. They have certainly not being standing idly by while they have lived down here. We were invited to stay the night and gladly accepted their offer of hospitality. Jens has a consulting business and Me Mamakwatshi has it seems the whole of TY. A very liked and important lady. She couldn’t really remember us, but made us feel really welcome – we liked her a lot.

Went down to the local car wash to get our by now very dirty 4x4 washed a bit. If you think it is the same as in Europe, then think again. Locals set themselves up with some water, electricity supply (maybe a portable generator), a high pressure cleaner and of course an area just at the side of the road – and off you go. It only took 1½ hours, but you can enjoy the chats with all the locals going past while you wait!!! Made an appointment for the vehicle to be repaired under guarantee in Bethlehem on Friday.

 Me Mamakwatchi had got in touch with the chief of police who she knew very well and told him about our experiences earlier. He heard our story and he would reprimand the officers responsible in the morning. Our vehicle of course didn’t need the roadworthy disc while we were travelling through. Relaxed over a braai with Jens and his family.

06.10.2009

Left Mohales Hook, eat breakfast along the road and headed Thaba Khuba. for Maseru, the capital. Didn’t recognize the place – it really has changed. The school that existed while we were there is unfortunately no more. Would you believe that the place is now a Lodge. The house we lived in is now a bar. We walked around not really believing what we were seeing – really a shame that such a good project closes. If a project like Thaba Khuba fails, then we have to be worried about the others.

Drove to Toyota to see if we could get them to look at the clutch on the vehicle which had become very noisy and also lower the tow bar. After waiting and waiting a technician looked at it and we agreed that they could look at it tomorrow. Reception would give me a price if I just sat down and waited and waited. Karen meantime had been running her finger over the town. She had been over to the tourist office and found out where we could overnight and where the old Danish Volunteer Office was. It seemed to have got misplaced in all the new roads and buildings. At last the receptionist informed me that the tow bar would cost 3000 rand – forget it, and they could do the clutch on Monday forget it. All of a sudden they couldn’t do it tomorrow. We will get it done in Bethlehem instead.  

05.10.2009   (see also the 21. and 22. of September  (click)

English breakfast was the order of the day – at least to get the day started. After the fantastic meal Elrita had prepared last night, we don’t need to eat for a couple of days. On the road again after finding a post office to pop a letter in the post and fill up the tank with diesel. We should have withdrawn some money from the bank, but with it being the 1^st of the month, everyone had got their wages and the queues outside the banks was enough to change our minds.

Got to the border at Qacha’s nek and the show started – everyone really nice and smiling. Show your passport while they fill out details, get a tag that you have to go to another counter to get stamped, then on to the border where they  check the slip, the car. Next stop the other side of the border, passports again then next counter we pay a fee for a permit to enter – then we were in. Only took half an hour and this is probably the easiest border to cross.

Wow it’s great to be back in Lesotho. There were the mountains waiting to greet us. Tar road as soon as we were over the border. A lot of the roads in Lesotho are now tar, which makes travelling a lot easier. Got to Mpaki, which unfortunately looked very run down, especially Peter’s garage, which didn’t look as if there was much left. All the windows were broken. ( Peter was volunteer in Lesotho at the same time as us).

Next stop Quting Technical School which was also partly supported by the Danes some years ago, but here things were still in progress – thank god something is still functioning. Talked to the Principal who would like to see a country coming in with help, but I don’t think it will happen.

Arrived in Mohales Hook where we got a room at the Monateng Lodge. Nothing fancy but you have what you need. We gave 200 rand per person without breakfast – a bit expensive I think. A bit of thunder and lightning tonight at the moment, but it’s warm.     

04.10.2009

A lone wild horse came by just after we went to bed. There was some interesting grass it wanted just at the side of where we parked. As long as we stayed in the tent it just kept nosing around. Just after we had got up several anglers arrive to start their days fishing. Had a quick breakfast and on the road.

Our wedding anniversary today. Karen had bought me a card that played a tune when opened, so she couldn’t write in it as she was afraid I would hear it when she did. I made a little card for her out of a bit of paper I found. It had writing on it – but what the hell, it’s the thought that counts. Drove towards Hartmans Pass on the road to Matatiele, not far from Lesotho. We had left Eliot’s craggy mountains o have them replaced by lots of “table mountains” and shear pointed peaks. We passed countless valleys as we drove up and then down. At Nauds Peak the highest pass in South Africa we were 2500 meters up. Needless to say another post card view where you could see about a hundred miles over to the horizon.

Got fixed up at nice bed and breakfast with Elrita and Philip in Matatiele, after a fruitless journey following a Garmin suggestion. Karen says we have got to stop following its ideas, because they tend to lead nowhere at all. Our hosts really made us feel welcome and fed us until we nearly burst. Got a chance to check our mail and thanks for all the greetings for our wedding anniversary.  Back to the room, because we need an early start in the morning, so we can get over the border to Lesotho.

03.10.2009

We had checked into a place called Livingstone Lodge right in Queenstown. An old house with lots of rooms, but where you are running into the family all the time in the lounge and kitchen area, which were placed in the middle of the house.  The daughter who was a student in Bloemfontein and her boyfriend were the only ones home. Their parents were off on their motor bikes somewhere for the weekend. We would really have liked to meet the parents,  because we could see from the house and garden that they would have had many interesting stories to tell. Left for Eliot which would be our next stop – hopefully camping. Beautiful weather today which was fantastic together with the continued cascade of mountains we are driving past and through. Arrived in Eliot and after driving around for a while, found the camping site. It was set in the most picturesque area. Down to a lake with craggy mountains as a backdrop. Set up camp and went for a walk and collected some firewood. The whole area came alive after sunset, with the sound of the toads, birds and zebras getting annoyed with us, because we  were in their way. Apparently the camp site hasn’t been used for some time and you could see it. No water in the toilets, but  people had still used them. The whole area is fantastic – it’s such a shame to let it get so run down. We can do without the facilities for one night though. Oh – the zebras are here again, can’t really see them, just their outlines.

Karen has gone to bed – now I am on my way.    

02.10.20009

Woke up in this gigantic bed – Karen was in it somewhere. Tea in bed was the order of the day today, served by my better half.  Breakfast out on the terrace overlooking the sheep farm where we had stayed the night. The owner had arranged a little trip for us for today. He had his own mountain with its very own 4x4 track and he had also arranged our own personal guide. Siyolise was a an 11 year old boy who would come with us and show us the route over the mountain. The view from the top was a 360 degree turn where mountains really dominated the skyline in all directions. This 4x4 drive took far longer than we had planned.  Dropped of our guide at his house and off we went.

Drove on the R351 towards Spring valley and the Devils Bellows. This was real serious 4x4 driving with progress very limited indeed. The views compensated for it a long way. The road climbed and climbed.  This was getting to be even more serious  4x4 driving.  Maybe we would have to camp out in the mountains tonight.

Now we were just driving over rocks and large stone s and even larger holes in the road and climbing and descending, 20 degree to 30 degree inclines. Low gear and four wheel drive and we were getting through.

Didn’t ‘t really  expect to spend so much time doing this, but our guide (GPS) kept us on the right track if you could really call it that. The view from the top was another candidate for best “nature” picture of the year.

The off road driving has really taken its toll. Now it is too late to get to where we had planned, but found a nice bed and breakfast in Queenstown. The vehicle is starting to protest a little bit, a tapping noise is coming from the area of the clutch, so we need to get it checked out soon – good night! 

29.09 – 01.10 2009

Woke up to a bit of sunshine and had our breakfast out on the veranda - overlooking the Indian Ocean!!! Yes it isn’t everyday you get to enjoy your breakfast like this – long live retirement. One of the things we can get down here is honey made tapped from the “blue gum tree”. Ole will have to see and try this when he gets down here. We are already hooked.

Lots of the things we can buy down here bring back fond memories of Lesotho and our time down there. Biscuits, fruit juice in 5 liter plastic bags in a carton and not forgetting “castle” beer. Squash (sweet potato)which looks like a round avocado taste fantastic after 10 minutes in boiling water.

Opened the tent on the vehicle to let it dry, Karen got some washing done, went down to the “local hotspot”, not your “in place” to be as the name implies, but a wireless area where you can get onto the net, for a small charge. Took a trip into Port Elizabeth during the late afternoon. Not  really as we remember it – but a lot can happen during the 25 years since we were here last. Eventually found a place El Greco along the waterfront called “The Boardwalk” which was a mini Tivoli without all the rides. A fantastic area with all the shops and restaurants with a lake in the middle, plus a casino. The place was teaming with people on a normal midweek day. We were very impressed because it was very tastefully done.

Don’t get much chance to eat fish – so we did here and were served by a “John Gleese” in typical “Faulty Towers” fashion.

Had a go at adjusting the lights on the Hilux on the way home while we were on a dark road, but when people stop to see that  you are alright, I decided to drop the idea.

Left the resort after using the last of our “hotspot” time and headed for Addo elephant park. Tried to see the place 25 years ago, but bad weather and not having a 4x4 stopped us getting in. This time we were lucky. Stayed at the campsite at the main camp. Relaxed a bit before doing a game drive. We saw our first African elephant on this trip at 15.40 precise – big day!!! Saw large many “leopard tortoises”, dung beatles and various small stuff. During the evening it started to rain – so up in the tent and good night!

Out of bed at 05.45 after a wet night and out on a game drive. Saw elephants, a jackal, kudu etc, but generally a lack of things to see. Wasn’t really worth getting up for. Left and headed north on N10 towards Cradock. Here we had lunch at Die Tuishuise recommended by Mr Kaari one of our friends back home. Thanks Peter – we said “hi” from you, though it was her daughter we talked to. She offered us the chance to stay in one of her cottages, but we said no thanks, as we wanted to get a bit further down the track before we stopped. Found a place on R344. Got a whole house with 4 bedrooms for 180 rand each. He gave us a map so we wouldn’t get  lost!!! – kidding.

28.09.2009

Woke up at 06.30. Clear sky, so it was up and a quick breakfast and on the road. Nobody came and asked for money to camp, or to see our permit, so it was a cheap night. Didn’t know what to expect today after the out of this world trip yesterday. The plan today was to get as far as Elands River along Baviaanskloof Berge and then decide which of the two alternatives we had, we would go for. Easier said than done! This road, as Tracks4Africa say, (the GPS map we are using ) is “pretty serious 4x4 tracking” and we managed an average speed of 8-10 KPH an hour. Sometimes the road was so bad we were down to 2 KPH an hour, but we really found out what the vehicle could do and it didn’t let us down. The roads are carved out of the mountain sides in most places and the drop from the side was shear – right to the bottom!!!

We met two guys coming the other way,  so we parked and had a chat. He was South African and a friend from Holland was with him and they were out 4x4 driving. He gave us a bit of advice as where to stay down at the coast close to Port Elizabeth. Filled up our bottles from the stream and off we went again. As you read this you might be tired of hearing words like fantastic – out of this world, but driving through the Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve has presented us with some of the most mind boggling scenery you could wish to see. For me, what I have seen during the last week beats anything that Norway or Switzerland can offer and that’s saying something.

After driving through endless orange-plantations we found our way to The Willows Resort on the coast at Cape Recife - a stone’s throw from Port Elizabeth. Rented a “rondavel” for a couple of nights - with a fantastic view of the ocean.

27.09.2009

Left Vaalwater Lodge and entered the Baviaanskloof 4x4 track from Nuwekloofpas to Bergplaas. The mountains beckoned to us almost immediately, just as they have done for the last few days. Denmark is going to seam a lot flatter after this. Enjoyed a day with slow progress, but what the hell, this scenery is post card stuff. Entered the state owned part of the track and found out that you have to have a permit to use the site. Of course we didn’t have one, how should we know we couldn’t just pay as we had done up to now.  When we got to number two site, we could see that we had to stop as you cannot drive this road after dark and the speed the last 20 km was 8 km/per hour. We drove in and just found a place to drop the tent and  hoped we could just pay if anyone came. Started to rain a bit, so up in the tent and played a few dice and an early night.

26.09.2009

Night before we left, the local rockers arrived and camped next to us. Don’t know how many there were, but their bike filled the site. They were noisy and friendly. We got up early and left to get out of the valley at 7.0am.

After a fantastic drive up to the road we went through amazing Swartberg Pass to a town called Prince Albert. After  another fantastic drive through gorges and mountains we called in to see Meiringspoort waterfall -  60 m . It  fell into a 9 m deep pool where a couple of divers were doing their thing – must have been cold. Especially for a gay and his little son on his back: he slipped when he jumped from one stone to another and they both ended up in the water (do you think this little fellow will trust his Dad again??)

Decided to go along on a 4x4 track down to  Port Elizabeth. Arrived at Vaalwater Lodge and got a room for the night. Windy and raining a bit, so no camping tonight for us. 

25.09.2009

Went for a walk in the morning and just sat up on one of the hills and gazed down the valley. Decided we would have to come back later on when it was G&T time. Lazy days here. Yesterday we had a drive down to the office 13 Km further down the track and got officially booked in. Had a shandy at the local hotel/shop and bought some smoky firewood. So called because it doesn’t burn – just smokes.

24.09.2009

Had a chat with Mary & Peter, the only other people on the camp site. She was from Zimbabwe and advised us not to go there, but Mozambique was a definite. She had worked there for a year. They left and we drove further down the valley to investigate. Lots of remnants of the old cottages where the forgotten people had lived. They are now being worked on with the intention of them being rented out as holiday cottages. Some of them are already finished. The whole area is a protected, so refurbishing of the properties is controlled. Apparently the people who lived here never knew anything about the two world wars, or the problems in South Africa. Yes they really were forgotten. Only one person remains today and she runs the old shop you come across on your way down the valley. She bakes bread and tells stories of the people who lived here.

Went a bit of a walk, but turned round again because we couldn’t really find a way through. Not much point in getting lost out here.

Rounded the day off with gin and tonic, a bit of grub and a Smokey fire. More people arrived today. Apparently it’s a long weekend in South Africa. Most in 4x4s, because of the road in is very rocky.

Days warm now (27c), but the nights are still cold.

23.09.2009

Got up to the fantastic panarama of the Swartberge peaks through the bedroom window. Unfortunately we have to say good bye to Mymering Estate and move on. Said our farewells and hit road again, or should I say track. The next port of call was Seweweekspoort Pass a few miles east along the R62. It wasn’t so much a pass but a gorge. The sides rose several hundred feet on either side all the way through. Every time we drove round a bend in the road the scenery changed dramatically. The whole gorge was about 19 Kms long. We had our lunch at one of the picturesque spots we found. Next was “The Hell” as it’s called. A remote lost valley buried in the middle of the mountains.

The road wound its way up the mountains, not much wider than a car, so if you met anyone coming the other way, hopefully you have the inside lane. Not a drive for the faint hearted and definitely not something you do in wet weather.

We arrived in tact and found ourselves a camp site. Not too much of a problem because only one site was taken. Really remote this place.

22.09.2009

Woke up at 07.30 to the sound of Africa and Karen caughing. Good that we decided to take the cottage in preference to camping. It has helped Karen’s situation a lot. The mountains were covered with mist, but as we finished breakfast, they started to clear. Decided to do a local, walk because we couldn’t find anything as impressive as the mountain back drop and fantastic foliage, right here on our doorstep.

The walk took us up to a vantage point where we had a 360 degree view of the whole area. This was a view to take your breath away.  In to Ladismith to buy some things. Home to a chat with Craig the owner and eventually back to the cottage to a well earned gin & tonic, before grilling some pork chops for tea.

While we were in the town we managed to get onto the net. An urgent e mail from the bank in Virklund told us that someone had tried to misuse one of our credit cards. We think we are being careful, but not careful enough. Luckily for us the bank stopped the transfer of some of the funds from our account, but maybe we will still have to pay for what was withdrawn!!! You really have to be careful when punching your code in.

21.09.2009

Early breakfast today after one of your friendly cocks started its early morning calls at 03.00 in the morning. Could have strangled the little blighter if I had got my hands on it. Karen not too well today – coughing and sniffling. We might have to sleep indoors tonight. Weather getting warmer during the days now. Slowly climbing to 25 degrees. Drove the R62 route through fantastic winemaking countryside, with the usual mountains lining the route. Our destination was the town of Ladismith where we would attempt to find some accommodation. Found some possibles in our brochures, but didn’t find any of them, but fell upon a sign that indicated vacancies. Nobody home when we arrived, but the cleaner and general help said there were vacancies and promptly opened a super cottage for us. The view in itself was worth the 300 rand per person per night we had to pay. The owner was a bit surprised when he came  home, but when he learned we wanted self catering and he didn’t have to do anything for us – he was happy. He has a very busy four days with guests ahead of him and was hoping for a rest before they arrived. The cottage was with two double bedrooms en suite and a really large lounge overlooking the mountains and garden. We were satisfied.

We will enjoy things here!

20.09.09

Had a good nights sleep, so the tent passed its first test. Bit cold during the night, but as soon as the sun poked its head through the morning mist, things started warming up quickly.

Went for lunch at the Cave, where we enjoyed our fish menu while watching the whales perform

.
The whales providing the entertainment while we eat

Started making our way up to a little town called, believe it or not, Ashton. It was strange being in a town bearing your own name. Stayed at a campsite in Montagu, where instead of the ocean we could see last night, now it was the mountains – oooh it’s hard being a camper! Again today, the scenery was out of this world – one fantastic scene followed by another one, just around the next corner.

People here, whether black or white,  are very friendly and helpful. Prices for accommodation vary from cheap to expensive compared to Denmark . Camping sites are generally cheap, 125 rand for a night with toilets and electricity thrown in. Lodges on the other hand can be very expensive, 2 – 3000 rand per night. We haven’t stayed at any lodges yet!!!

19.09.09
Toby, Laura and the guys showed us a route that took you up overlooking Cape Town and Table Mountain. Took a few photos, then good byes and off. Felt like we were saying good bye to friends we had known for years – we’ll miss them.

Toby, Silus, Linus and Laura saying goodbye. As you can see Laura doesn’t look too sad!!!

We drove down to Hermanus on the coast. The place is famous for its whales who bask in the warm coastal waters, sometimes meters from the shore if you are lucky. Indescribable scenery on the trip down. The mountains are just out of this world. The trip took longer than planned  - well you can’t just drive through without getting out of the vehicle to take the whole thing in. Too late to get lunch at the Cave restaurant, but the whales were there on cue, performing their stage act for the multitude who had gathered to catch the show. Spent the night in Onrus, a few kilometers away at a lovely camp site, right down to the beach. Now we could see if the vehicle could live up to our expectations.

Our first campsite

18.09.09

Our stay in Cape Town has been fantastic to say the least. Toby, Laura and the boys (all three of them) have made it so difficult to think about leaving,  and think, we should have only stayed with them for a couple of days. I think we should really say thanks to Marie in the docks, for doing such a bad job of getting our vehicle through the customs “red tape”. If she had been more efficient we would never have got to spend so much quality time in Cape Town – thanks Marie!!!

Spent the day packing the car again for the off tomorrow. Toby  thinks the whole idea of packing our vehicle is so funny – we never seem to do anything else he says. He is probably right.

17.09.09

Still no sign of the table we brought with us in the container. Don’t really know what the continuing delay is. Today is a vehicle day. The last fitments and packing are now being done. We leave on Saturday, early, so all the remaining corners have to be filled up so we can take everything with us.

16.09.2009

Today we went for drive down to Cape Point.  Took the coast road all the way down, fantastic scenery. Nostalgic drive through Simon’s  Town. Doesn’t seem to have changes much. Drove to the right down Bellevue road just after Simon’s Town and saw our first penguins. They weren’t very big. You can probably see a photo on this site soon. Drove into camping site where we stayed on our last trip to Cape Town in 1984. More or less as we left it all those year ago. Further on at the point, we climbed up to lighthouse to enjoy the fantastic view of ocean and mountains. Hello Africa - we are here!!!

11 – 15.09. 2009

The saga of downloading “mapsource” and Tracks for Africa onto our new Garmin nuvi continues. Downloading from the net is a none starter here, everything is downloaded from a CD. First problem for us, our  new notebook computer does not have a CD drive. First order of the day was to get one.  Ended up getting one we couldn’t use  at all. Back to the shop to get it changed to another one. Got a bit further with the download, but not to the end. After endless calls to experts and Garmin support, we got the maps downloaded. Now hopefully we can find out how to use them  - He he!!! Visited shop after shop in our effort to get the final camping items we still need. Pots, kettle, awning, stove, gas, chairs, supplies and spares for the car are what we need before we hit the road.

Silas, John, Thorbjørn, Laura, Stephen, Linus + cake, card and present

Held my birthday on Sunday the 13^th because Toby had to travel to Johannesburg on business on Monday and wouldn’t be back for my birthday on Tuesday. Laura made Pavlova and we really got stuck into that. Weather  changeable at the moment, but we can feel it’s getting warmer. Probably be better when we start moving East towards Lesotho.

Got a card, a song and a “braai” tongue off Karen for my actual birthday and a “cuppa” in bed. Lots of birthday e mail messages came during the day – thanks everyone!     

10.09.2009

Great to have got the vehicle. No problems with the trip in the container. The vehicle was received just as it was sent!  Drove over to “Mega 4x4”, an off road shop. We were served with a cup of coffee just after we arrived – just the way we like it. I think Denmark could learn something from the Africans here. Got some of the things we needed. Our list is long, so this is going to take some time and we have plenty of that!!!

Pretty impressed with Cape Town a city on the move. Here people are friendly and courteous – also on the road. I can understand why people move here to live and work. Cape Town’s university is also full of foreign students who have heard the positive jibes about studying here. Yes the city is going places.

09.09.2009

Well the saga of the car goes on and on. Yesterday we eventually got the green light from the agent responsible for the formalities of getting the vehicle through the jungle of red tape. The customs would check the vehicle at 9.0 am today – yipeee! You shouldn’t get too excited though, we were on our way in a taxi to the meeting point at the container yard when my cell rang – customs are on strike, the inspection was put back to 2.0 pm.

Got the taxi to drop us off just outside Peter & Birgith’s flat overlooking the new football stadium under construction and the Atlantic ocean. Luckily we got into the flat which was being renovated, just to have a peak. Superb accommodation with two bedrooms.

Wandered around waterfront and had lunch overlooking the harbour. Three seals came swimming past just to put the icing on the cake.

Inspection went well. A bit nervous when they opened the container. Would everything be okay?  – yes it was, at least until the agent started talking about having to wait until tomorrow before we could get the vehicle. At the end of the day we couldn’t get the vehicle anyway. They suddenly quoted a price which was three times the amount we had origanally been told in Denmark. You just have to pay and like it. We did get a 1000 rand knocked off.  We didn’t get the table, but drove our vehicle home. Parked in Toby and Laura’s driveway

2009-09-04 – 07

Well now we have to play the waiting game. Even though the ship arrived here with our car on time on Monday, we are still waiting to get our hands on it a week later. Things don’t exactly move at express pace here, even though Cape Town in a lot of ways seems to represent a thriving modern city.

Excuses for the delay range from bad weather, shorthanded and problems with the customs etc. The weather isn’t showing us its best side either at the moment, so we have been a bit house bound here for the last couple of days. This isn’t really a problem, because we have got to spend more time with our hosts Toby, Laura, Silus and Linus, which has been a fantastically positive experience.

We drove around in the rain to check out some part and  prices, with Toby as driver, in the more or less open air one seat  Landrover,  with two gas bottles we had loaned from Toby stuck between our legs. We get the errand done without getting too wet, but it was fun.

Toby is a fantastic chef and we sample his culinary expertise most evenings. He loves cooking and preparing special dishes and we are the perfect and lucky recipients of all the Selanders unique hospitality.

Who needs the car!!!