1st of January 2011 Mozambique

A great night on the beach last night. As we didn't get to bed too early, we slept in a little. Had a walk down the beach to a campsite we had heard about. Luckily not a patch on Morrungulo where we are now, so we were pleased. Had a dip on our way back to the camp.

Funny to think that it's now 2011. 2010 has been a really special year for us and will always be our "Africa year" when we think back. We are both still enjoying our Africa adventure, but we cannot run away from the fact that we have only four months left.

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Morrungulo

 

2nd - 6th of January - to South Africa again

Morrungulo has started to empty. From being more or less full, the South Africans are heading home. We have now got an uninterupted view of the Indian Ocean from our camp site. Our days are going by with dips in the ocean, walks along the beach, sitting in the shade, because with the temperature around 34 degrees C, it would be daft to do otherwise. The locals still come with friut and bread, but the fish seems to have dried up.

Now it's the 4th and we will hit the road towards Kruger National Park. We won't go via Maputo, but we will sort of cut across going into Kruger through Limpopo National Park and direct into Kruger. On our way south we decided to stay at Paradise Magoo Camp site. We have never been there before, but we could see that it was out on the coast, so it couldn't be all bad. Well that's what we thought. On our way from the main road to the site, we suddenly came across a sign "4x4 only  - reduce tyre pressures to 80, which was about a third of what I was running with.

Well we have driven through the Kalahari haven't we? So there wasn't anything we couldn't get through. We drove on and then the deep sandy road dipped down into 1 in 4 slope and we seemed to go down forever. Wow - how are we going to get back up tomorrow??? When we got down there we didn't like the place one bit, so that getting out again was about to happen.

Well we couldn't get back up the slope, even belting along in low four wheel drive third gear. We just couldnt make the top before we got bogged down. We made three attempts to get up, without success. Why the hell did we come down here!!!!! The third attempt left us with 20 meters to the top, so now with Karen pushing and engaging the assistance of  "diff lock", we crawled over the top. Wow that was a near thing. We ended up at Honey Pot where we stayed on the way up with Jorgen and Hanne and co.

Didn't make any food but tasted the restaurant's Beef Lasange - mmmm, tasted good. Next day we pressed on into Limpopo and found the camping site inside the park, great. A fantastic view down over a lake from our camp site. Stayed here a couple of nights. The water ran out before we managed to have a shower. Africa won again there. Went down to the lake to get some water so we could have a wash. The two guys looking after camp came with us. They were going to have a wash in the lake, but we let that one pass. I could easily wait another day for a shower after I saw how deep and rough the lake was, and to make things better you had to jump in from the rocks.

 

7th - 9th of January - Kruger National Park

Left Limpopo camp early and headed for the gate and border crossing to Kruger. Here as we passed into South Africa, we were told that they couldn't renew our permit, this we would have to do in Nelspruit or one of the other towns nearby, but outside the park. This would present a problem, because we would have to pay to go through the park to get to one of the towns and that's a lot of money wasted if you aren't going to see some game at the same time. We would just have to drive through as fast as we could to get the permit issued. They gave us a seven day permit so we could wait until until the fourteenth of January to get it done. The reason that they won't issue an extension at the border now is because many people just leave South Africa for a few minutes and then turn round and come back and get a new three months permit. It's a shame though that it had to affect us tourists who are not using the system in the wrong way.

 

We got through into the park and did a game drive on the way to Letaba where we would set up camp. We did a game drive on the way to the camp and not far inside the gate we met this fella on the right. He and Mrs lioness were right at the side of the track. I got a shock because they appeared right out of the blue. Why he appeared so angry, we don't know, but my window was wound up at once. Nothing happened though and in the end they moved on - reluctantly. We generally didn't see much game during the couple of days we spent in Kruger. We saw zebra, elephant (but not in large groups), crocs, turtles, wilderbeast, lion and buffalo. Because it is so wet the animals are not visiting the water holes so much, because there is water everywhere.

One angry lion in Mocambique

Scorpion hanging around the kitchen at Lataba camp in Kruger

10th - 15th of January

A croc enjoying a chat with a few turtles in Kruger.

We left Kruger on the 10th and we were now heading for Mfubu Lodge to visit Olga who we met last year. She runs the lodge, which is situated just outside Kruger, on her own. We like it here because Olga is a lovely person and all sorts of animals frequent the large - including the big five. She made us feel at home at once and we would stay in one of the chalets down on the river. Of course we chatted for most of our time there, but there was time to do a few jobs for her. I repaired a door and looked at her two Landrovers and told her what was needed to get them active again. The apes, especially the baboons, are very active, so I made use of Olga's sling shot to show them who was boss!!

The Olifants river had so much water, that one of Olga's swimming pools had disappeared under the mass of water. As Karen and me were stood there a large Nile croc came lazily swimming in the shallow water, a few meters from where we stood. We ate up at Olga's house and I even caught United's game with Liverpool on her TV. After a couple of days we left, accompanied by Olga who also had some shopping to do. We went into Home Affairs to renew our visa. To cut the whole story short, we didn't get one. You can only apply to Pretoria and it would take six weeks to be processed. We were really frustrated at having to use so much time to no avail. The system has been changed and there was no way around the problem. Maybe a trip to Swaziland and back could solve the problem. They would maybe give us 3 months when we re-enter again. 

 

Our plan was now centred on a trip to Swaziland. On our way down we called in at Blyde River Canyon Lodge where we would meet Esther, a friend from Denmark, who had organised a motorbike trip in the area. We had her route plan, so we knew where we could catch them. We actually went to the wrong lodge, so we had to drive a 100 kms back again. It was great to see her and the people who she was travelling with were very friendly and we were made to feel welcome. We stayed at the lodge for the night and dined with the group. Left late the next day, so we stayed at Pilgrims Rest Caravan Park on the way towards Swaziland. It is close to a town of the same name. We walked through the town, which has been preserved through the years in its original state. Even the petrol station had the original pumps and still in working order.

Our next stop would be Sabie river camp where we had stayed before, but not before we called into see a couple of waterfalls on the way. We met a guy called Desmond in Zambie, where he told us that his dad ran the lodge and if we ever passed by we should call in. We did. It was even better, because Desmond was there as well. We had no intention of staying the night, because we wanted to get over the border to Swaziland before the evening. After a good chat and of course we had told them about out visa predicament, Desmond said he was sure he could help. We ended up in Nelspruit, but unfortunately we drew a blank. We paid 425 rand each and sent an application via Nelspruit to Pretoria and if we are lucky, after 6 weeks we will have our visa. Never mind, Desmond, Karen and myself had a good lunch before we drove home again. We are now going to stay for a few days and enjoy the area. Just think, while we were sitting in between showers, a white stork flew in and landed on the field in front of us. Back home, if we saw that it would be a sensation - but that's Africa for you - full of surprises. The camp with a warm and cold outdoor pools. So it depends on the temperature which one you use. There is also a bar and TV, plus kitchens with lots of facilities we can use as we want.

We have now had rain for several days and it's starting to get on our nerves. Saturday the 15th we set off in the pouring rain to see a couple of waterfalls that Desmond said were fantastic and were not on the normal tourist track. A couple from the camp were joining us and we all ended up going in their vehicle. Desmond had his daughter Anya with him. It was a wet trip, but we were really impressed with what we saw. Called in at Pilgrims Rest on the way back for a pancake, coffee etc. Desmond offered us the use of a tent with a bathroom and kitchen, because of the wet weather. We didn't say no, because it's no fun being wet all the time. Desmond came up to the tent and made a typical African "potje" meal for us. A combination of several things including lamb and beef, cooked together until tender. Tasted fantastic!

RAIN, RAIN, RAIN

Desmond with Anja, Niekie and Mariska, John

It's hard work getting to the falls

 

 

 

   
 
 

When it's wet here, it's WET!!!

16th - 20th of January  North East South Africa 

Life at Sabie River Camp is one lazy jaunt. This is really the way to retire. We took a chance when the rain was on hold and drove out to see more waterfalls, Horseshoe falls, Bridal falls and Lone creek falls. So much water, simply fantastic. Bought a few essentials in Sadie on the way home. Spent time in the internet cafe trying to update our home page, but unfortunately without success. I have no idea why we can't get through to our system. Must be something with the set up of our computer - but what????

Desmond and his daughter came down to eat. Karen did meat balls in curry (a typical Danish dish) A nice evening on the terrace of our tent. The only thing that has spoiled the enjoyment a little, is the constant rain. It has rained every day since we left Mozambique. Karen get a short back and sides, so she has short hair again. She looks nice though I have to admit.

Raymond, Desmond's dad knows someone who is maybe interested in buying the vehicle, but lets see! Unfortunately the time has arrived to move on. A bit sad to leave, really nice seeing Desmond again and Anya his daughter.  

Drove via Nelspruit, Barberton and eventually Badplaas where we stayed at the camping site at Forever Resort, which is a sort of health centre. They had several warm pools and a long water slide which Karen and myself tried a couple of times. Nice place, but we only stayed one night, because a resort is not really our cup of tea. One of the things we have experienced, especially in South Africa, is the Hadeda Ibis. A very noisy bird that makes a flat trumpet noise when it flies and as they often fly in a flock, it's very loud. They start at sun up (04.30 am), so who needs an alarm clock. I am happy they don't have them in Denmark, or a few would get shot, especially if they invaded my garden. 

A Hadeda Ibis

Camping site at Zululand Nyala Lodge

 

 
Next day we were on the way towards the coast. We drove further than we really expected, but found no camping sites on route. Our route was via Amsterdam, but steady on, it wasn't a trip via Holland. They have their own Amsterdam down here. We then continued on to Peit Retief, ending up just past Pongola. The trip was fantastic, with both forests, mountains, rivers and lakes. To make it even better there were no bushes or trees at the side of the road, so we could see everything. South Africa is beautiful!!! We went from 1500 meters above sea level to about 200 meters, so all of a sudden it's warmer. We checked into Zululand Nyala Safaris. They had a camping site. What a fantastic place it turned out to be. The lodge is empty at the moment, while they renovate some of it. We can use the facilities though and as we are the only ones here, it's like being in paradise. 32 degrees today and no rain and a swimming pool all to ourselves. The lodge is a bit run down at the moment, but a young South African couple, who bought it a year ago, are working hard to get things fixed up. Apart from the lodge and camping site they have a bush camp higher up in the bush and from here you can see the mountains, lakes etc. The area is also filled with animals. We did a couple of game drives and saw giraffes, zebra, bush buck, impala, kudu, warthog and we were lucky enough to see a leopard.
One morning while we were eating our breakfast a horse, which was part of a group of three, came right up to our table and wouldn't budge. Up to this point they had always given us a wide berth - but the smell of cornflakes, or muesli must have been overpowering. The only way to get rid of it, so we could continue our breakfast was to get the two others to go back out into the bush, so the third would follow. We enlisted one of the locals to help, and it worked, so our breakfast was ours again.  

Uninvited guest at breakfast

  

21st -30th of January

We left on the Saturday and had a fantastic drive down to Eshowe where we would camp. Here the scenery on route was some of the best South Africa has. We stopped several time to enjoy it and marvelled at the variation as we moved through on our way west. We got to InnZululand Guest Lodge. Sylvia and Nick, who own it, were not home as we arrived, but Sylvia arrived shortly after us. They both work with ZuluFadder, a Norwegian organisation who help children who have lost both parents. They have just bought a really large house where some of the many children they help, can spend some time. When I first saw it, I was really surprised at how big it was, but of course, the bigger it is, means more children can get the help they need.

The weather had taken a turn for the worst, so we booked into their B&B section of their property, instead of going down town. Next day we went down to the house to see if we could help with many of the jobs that needed doing. Nick asked if we could maybe stay on a bit and help to get the house ship shape. The first five children would arrive on Monday, so there wasn't much time. We both got involved and enjoyed being able to help in such a good cause. Just to see the kids reaction when they came through the door for the first time, was worth the effort.

We could see that a lot of work was involved to get things right, so we decided to stay until the jobs done. Weather still bad, with rain and even more rain, so it wouldn't be much fun camping anyway. It's amazing how much time and work both Sylvia and Nick put in to help these kids - god be less them!

 

Bush camp at Zululand Nyala Safaris

 

Karen hard at work at Zulufadders house

The work on the house is going well. Bathrooms are being brought up to scratch, curtain rails hung up, lights repaired or replaced, washing machine installed, taps replaced as required, drawers and cupboards repaired, curtains taken down and washed etc - and much more. You find new jobs all the time. The girl employed to look after the children is slowly responding to the job. We think she will be a good investment for the organisation. She is young and bright and it's the first job she has had.

Being allowed to help here, gives you a great feeling, because believe me these kids need help, to be able to lead a normal life. We don't know how long we will stay here, but at least the next two three days I think.

 

A net is fitted over the pool at Zulufadders house

 
Sylvia asked us if we could help by staying over at the house Friday and Saturday, because as yet no security has been arranged. A guy will live on the premises, but his accommodation is not yet ready. Today which is Saturday the 29th of January, Karen is going out to see a little girl who Jorgen and Hanne would like to sponsor through Zulufadder. This means she gets help until she is 18. (the little girl not Karen he he) Karen came back after a long fantastic day with the locals and she got lots of thanks and gifts for the help they are receiving.

I am still working on the house. With no maintenance being done for a long time, the jobs keep coming my way - but it's great to be able to use ones skills for the benefit of the less fortunate. I am enjoying the opportunity.

The big job today, while Karen was away, was to install a shower arrangement in a room at the side of the pool, where the security person(s) who will be here at night and weekends, can have a shower etc. The unit is something they use a lot down here in Africa. The shower head is fed with cold water and heats the water up to about 55 degrees C, depending though on the amount of water passing through the unit. It means though that instead of piping hot water, you have to have an earthed electricity supply available instead. 

Nick and Sylvia invited us up to their house (Inn zululand guest lodge) to eat grilled marinated prawns. Nick excelled himself at the grill. A lovely evening, where Nick and Sylvia expressed their thanks for the help Karen and me have given to the project. We were even presented with a wonderful gift comprising insulated carrier holdall, complete with wine and glasses and serviettes. So now we are ready for the next camp site when we want to enjoy a glass of wine in a bit of style. It was really nice of them, but we won't remember them for the present - we will remember them for the fantastic people they are.

Today Sunday, it was Nicks birthday, so when they suddenly appeared at the house, Karen and myself sang "happy birthday" from the terrace. The neighbours now know he has a birthday today - he he. We have decided that we will leave tomorrow and continue our journey in the direction of Cape town.
 

Marinated prawns direct from the grill.

31st of January

On the road towards Salt Rock, just north of Durban. Nick had told us about a great campsite down on the beach - this we had to try. A short jaunt of about 100kms, again through fantastic countryside. The ting that stands out is how green everything is. Must be something to do with all the rain we have had. Arrived in Salt Rock and promptly found a little cafe where the savoury muffins and cappuccino were out of this world. Next stop the camp site (caravan park) and it was a nice as Nick had said. Not very big, but a fantastic view of the Indian Ocean. There is a hotel next door, where you can eat if you like. We will think about that one!!! Down on the beach there is a tidal pool, which is constantly filled up by the large breakers. We had a swim in it, but it's not very deep. We tried a little further down the beach, but the  current was very strong. Ideal for surfers, but a bit strong for swimming.  Met  Des and Helen as we were on our way up to have a look at the hotel next door. Three hours flew by as we sat and talked. A really nice couple and we enjoyed talking to them.


Salt Rock Camp site

February